The two main considerations for a firewood shed are a free air circulation flow and keeping the rain or snow off the wood. If you're not concerned about having the best looking firewood shed in the neighborhood but instead having one that is inexpensive and easy to put together then with a few tools and two hours work you can have one that is practical and works well. Used wood pallets allow air past their slats but keep out the majority of the rain and snow.
Things You'll Need
- 13 10-foot 2-by-4 inch wooden studs
- 8 45 inch-by-48 inch wooden or plastic pallets
- Power saw
- Power screwdriver with 2.5-inch wood screws
- 3 10-foot 1-by-2 inch wooden studs
- 1 4 foot-by-8 foot 1/2-inch sheet of plywood, plastic, or tin for the roof
- 6 3-foot or longer rebar pieces
- 6mil construction plastic
Cut two studs into 92-inch long pieces. On both studs mark a 2-inch line below one end on one of the 2-inch sides. Saw off the corner of the stud from that mark to the opposite corner. You should have a chisel-shaped end on the stud when finished.
Cut three studs into 90-inches long pieces. Cut four studs into 48-inches long pieces . Cut four studs into 96-inches long pieces.
Start a simple box frame by setting the two 92-inch pieces in front with the chisel cut at the top, with the slope going towards the rear of the shed.
Screw a 96-inch stud to the bottom and the top of the 92-inch studs with a simple right angle join, creating a rectangle of studs. This is the front of the shed.
Create another rectangle by using two of the 90-inch studs as the right and left sides of the back supports for the shed and screwing another pair of 96-inch studs to their top and bottom. This is the back of the shed.
Connect the front and back frames by screwing a 48-inch stud into the outside of the top and bottom of the front and back frames. The result should be a box frame with a width of 96 inches in the front and back, and a depth of 48 inches from from to back.
Add a third 90-inch stud to the back rectangle, running from the top stud to the bottom and on the outside, and placed halfway between the left and right support stud.
Screw a supporting 1-by-2 inch stud from the top right corner stud of the inside of the right side of the box frame diagonally to the lower left inside corner stud. Cut the 1-by-2 stud flush with the outside of the box frame. Repeat the same process with the left and rear side of the box frame.
Move the frame to the exact location where the shed will be placed. If desired, drill 1/2-inch holes every few feet along the bottom of the frame and drive sections of rebar through the holes and 2-feet into the ground for protection against tipping over in strong winds.
Screw a pallet to the outside bottom half of the right side of the box frame. The pallet should fit with the 48-inch side while running parallel to the ground. Just above this pallet attach a second pallet. This forms the right wall of the shed. Repeat the process for the left wall.
Attach the four remaining pallets to the studs at the rear of the shed in a similar fashion. Two of the pallets go along the bottom of the rectangle, and two go at the top. When finished you'll have a box with three sides covered with pallets and no roof yet.
Attach the roof by screwing down from the top into the studs at each corner. The backward slope of the front corner studs allow the water to drain off from the roof instead of pooling. L-shaped metal brackets and screws set into the top left and right studs can be used along the roof to give it greater stability if desired.
Staple 6-mil or greater construction plastic to the inside bottom frame to create a moisture barrier flooring between the grass and the wood. This is not needed if the shed is resting on concrete.