How to Make a Fox Costume

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Sized for a 2- to 3-year-old, this sewn fox costume is the perfect project for an advanced beginner. Using hook-and-loop fasteners, it's an easy and quick sew as well.

Happy fox!
Happy fox! (Image: Jill Sparks)
All ears
All ears (Image: Jill Sparks)

Unless otherwise noted, a 1/2-inch seam allowance is used for the entire project. When pressing, use a medium heat setting.

Things You'll Need

  • Printable pattern
  • Two yards red/orange flannel
  • 1/8-yard white flannel
  • 1 piece of black felt
  • 1 piece of white felt
  • Scissors
  • Glue stick
  • Pins
  • Matching thread
  • Iron
  • Polyester stuffing
  • White yarn
  • Ruler
  • Glue gun
  • 1/2-yard double-fold white bias tape
  • 1/2-yard sew-in hook-and-loop fastener
Materials needed
Materials needed (Image: Jill Sparks)

Step 1: Cut Out the Fabric

Cut out all your fabric. You will have:

  • 2 front pieces
  • 2 back pieces
  • 2 sleeves
  • 1 belly
  • 2 orange color tail pieces
  • 2 white tail color pieces
  • 4 hood pieces
  • 4 orange color ear pieces
Fabric pieces
Fabric pieces (Image: Jill Sparks)

Cut the white ear pieces, eyes, nose and whiskers out of the felt.

Face pieces
Face pieces (Image: Jill Sparks)

Step 2: Sew the Tail

Glue baste the white contrast pieces onto the bottom of each tail piece.

Glue baste white contrast piece on main piece.
Glue baste white contrast piece on main piece. (Image: Jill Sparks)

Zigzag stitch across the tops of each white piece, permanently attaching it to the main piece. Use a width of 4 mm and a length of 0.5 mm.

Zigzag across the tops of contrast pieces.
Zigzag across the tops of contrast pieces. (Image: Jill Sparks)

Place the tail pieces right sides together and sew together. Press the stitching, and then trim the seam allowance.

Trim the seam allowance.
Trim the seam allowance. (Image: Jill Sparks)

Turn right-side out and stuff with the polyester stuffing. Don't overstuff it.

Polyester stuffing
Polyester stuffing (Image: Jill Sparks)

Step 3: Sew the Ears

Sew two main color ear pieces, right sides together. Repeat for the other two ear pieces. Press, trim seam allowance and turn to the right side.

Sew ears, press and trim seam allowances.
Sew ears, press and trim seam allowances. (Image: Jill Sparks)

On the right side, place the white contrast ear pieces on the ears, lining up the bottom edges. Using the hot glue gun, glue in place.

Hot glue the white ear piece in place.
Hot glue the white ear piece in place. (Image: Jill Sparks)

Step 4: Make the Straps

Cut 12 pieces of yarn the approximate length of your arm. Separate into two groups of six each and knot at the top.

Braid the yarn, holding it double stranded. Leave about 3 or 4 inches at the bottom and set aside.

Braid the yarn holding it double stranded.
Braid the yarn holding it double stranded. (Image: Jill Sparks)

Step 5: Sewing the Ears Into the Hood

Place one of the hood pieces flat on your work surface. Just before it curves backward, mark a spot 4 inches down.

Mark 4 inches down from the top.
Mark 4 inches down from the top. (Image: Jill Sparks)

Make a cut straight down to the mark.

Cut straight down to the mark.
Cut straight down to the mark. (Image: Jill Sparks)

Fold the smaller side of the cut onto the larger side.

Fold the smaller side onto the larger side.
Fold the smaller side onto the larger side. (Image: Jill Sparks)

Fold the top part down and insert the ear, right-side down and hanging 1/8 inch over the edge of the slit. Then put the top part back over the inserted ear.

Insert the ear.
Insert the ear. (Image: Jill Sparks)

Pin and sew 1/4 inch from the edge of the slit. As you get closer to the bottom of the ear, curve back to the edge as you sew. You will sew off the edge of the fabric. Do not backstitch. Leave long threads and knot a couple times before clipping the threads.

Pin and sew at a 1/4-inch seam allowance.
Pin and sew at a 1/4-inch seam allowance. (Image: Jill Sparks)

Trim the 1/8-inch overhang of the ear.

Trim the overhang of the ear.
Trim the overhang of the ear. (Image: Jill Sparks)
Curved seam at the bottom of the ear.
Curved seam at the bottom of the ear. (Image: Jill Sparks)
The ear sewn into the hood.
The ear sewn into the hood. (Image: Jill Sparks)

Repeat on the opposite hood piece.

Sew the remaining two hood pieces the same way, minus the ears.

The remaining two hood pieces, minus the ears.
The remaining two hood pieces, minus the ears. (Image: Jill Sparks)

Step 6: Finish Sewing the Hood

Pin the hood pieces with ears right sides together from forehead back down the neck. Tuck the ears in. Be careful not to sew over them. Repeat for the non-ear hood pieces.

The non-ear hood pieces on the left and the hood pieces with ears on the right.
The non-ear hood pieces on the left and the hood pieces with ears on the right. (Image: Jill Sparks)

Sew, press and trim the seam allowances.

Press and trim the hood pieces.
Press and trim the hood pieces. (Image: Jill Sparks)

On the outside, right-hand side of the hood piece with the ears, pin the straps, the loose end at the bottom right front of the hood, sitting diagonally, with the long end toward the back. Repeat for the other side of the hood.

Pin the strap onto the hood.
Pin the strap onto the hood. (Image: Jill Sparks)

Sew in place with a 1/4-inch seam allowance. Sew over the yarn a couple times.

Sew the straps onto the hood.
Sew the straps onto the hood. (Image: Jill Sparks)

Next, tuck the piece with the ear (right-side out) inside the piece with no ears (wrong-side out) so their right sides are touching.

Tuck the piece with the ears inside the piece with no ears.
Tuck the piece with the ears inside the piece with no ears. (Image: Jill Sparks)

Pin around all the edges, leaving a 3- to 4-inch gap at the bottom back.

With right sides together, pin around the edges.
With right sides together, pin around the edges. (Image: Jill Sparks)
The three to four inch gap at the bottom back.
The three to four inch gap at the bottom back. (Image: Jill Sparks)

Match the seam lines of the hood pieces at the center front.

Match the hood seam lines at the center front.
Match the hood seam lines at the center front. (Image: Jill Sparks)

Sew all around, leaving the back gap unsewn, press, and then flip right side out at the gap. Press again, this time on the outside. Turn the seam allowance at the gap to the inside and press. Match up the seam lines at the bottom back.

The gap pinned and ready for sewing.
The gap pinned and ready for sewing. (Image: Jill Sparks)
The seam lines match up.
The seam lines match up. (Image: Jill Sparks)

Sew closed with a 1/8-inch seam to close the gap. Continue all the way around the hood, topstitching.

Sew at 1/8-inch.
Sew at 1/8-inch. (Image: Jill Sparks)
The hood completely sewn together.
The hood completely sewn together. (Image: Jill Sparks)
The topstitching detail.
The topstitching detail. (Image: Jill Sparks)

Step 7: Glue on the Fox Face

This is the easiest and most fun part of the project! Arrange the face pieces where you want them, placing everything symmetrically.

Arrange the felt face pieces where you want them.
Arrange the felt face pieces where you want them. (Image: Jill Sparks)

One by one, carefully apply glue to the back of each felt piece and put in place.

Put glue on the back of the felt piece and lay in place.
Put glue on the back of the felt piece and lay in place. (Image: Jill Sparks)

After you have all your pieces glued in place, you're officially done with the hood.

The completed hood.
The completed hood. (Image: Jill Sparks)

Step 8: Stitch the Front Sections Together

With right sides together, stitch the front center sections together. Press. Finish the seams.

Pin, sew and press the front sections together.
Pin, sew and press the front sections together. (Image: Jill Sparks)

Open the section and press the seam allowance to one side

Open the front and press the seam allowance to one side.
Open the front and press the seam allowance to one side. (Image: Jill Sparks)

Tip

  • To finish the seams, if you have a serger, finish them by serging. If you do not have a serger, use your regular machine's overcast function or zigzag to prevent fraying.

Step 9: Attach the Belly to the Front

Open the front and center the belly piece on the right side. Using the glue stick, glue around the edges of the wrong side of the belly piece and and press in place. Allow the glue to dry.

Glue baste the belly to the front.
Glue baste the belly to the front. (Image: Jill Sparks)

Set your machine to zigzag with a width of 4 and a length of 0.5 and stitch around the belly, attaching to the front. Press.

Zigzag around the belly.
Zigzag around the belly. (Image: Jill Sparks)
The belly attached.
The belly attached. (Image: Jill Sparks)

Step 10: Stitch the Shoulders

With right sides together, pin and sew the shoulders together. Finish the seams and press toward the back.

Sew, finish the seams and press to the back.
Sew, finish the seams and press to the back. (Image: Jill Sparks)

Step 11: Staystitch the Neck

To stabilize the neckline, stitch from each shoulder to the center at 1/4-inch from the edge.

Staystitch around the neck.
Staystitch around the neck. (Image: Jill Sparks)

Step 12: Apply Bias Tape to the Neck

With right sides together, open up the bias tape and line up the edge of tape to the raw edge of the neckline. Pin in place.

With right sides together, pin the bias tape to neckline.
With right sides together, pin the bias tape to neckline. (Image: Jill Sparks)

Sew in the fold line closest to the edge.

Sew in the fold line closest to the edge.
Sew in the fold line closest to the edge. (Image: Jill Sparks)

Clip into the seam allowance, approximately every 1/2 inch, being careful not to clip into the seam. This allows the bias tape to lay smoothly when folded over.

Clip into the seam allowance.
Clip into the seam allowance. (Image: Jill Sparks)

From the right side, press the bias tape toward the back.

Press the bias tape toward the back.
Press the bias tape toward the back. (Image: Jill Sparks)

Fold the bias tape over the seam allowance toward the back.

Fold the bias tape over the seam allowance.
Fold the bias tape over the seam allowance. (Image: Jill Sparks)

Then fold under again and press.

Fold under again and press.
Fold under again and press. (Image: Jill Sparks)

Pin in place.

Pin the bias tape in place.
Pin the bias tape in place. (Image: Jill Sparks)

Sew close to the inside edge and then press the stitching.

Sew the bias tape in place.
Sew the bias tape in place. (Image: Jill Sparks)
The bias tape sewn in place.
The bias tape sewn in place. (Image: Jill Sparks)

Step 13: Insert the Sleeves

Matching the center of the sleeve head to the center of the armhole (seam line), with right sides together, pin them together.

Pin the sleeve to the armhole.
Pin the sleeve to the armhole. (Image: Jill Sparks)
The sleeve pinned into the armhole.
The sleeve pinned into the armhole. (Image: Jill Sparks)

Sew and finish the seams. Press the seam toward the sleeve.

Sew and finish the seam.
Sew and finish the seam. (Image: Jill Sparks)

Step 14: Hem the Sleeves

On the wrong side, turn up the arms at the wrists 1/2 inch and press. Turn up another 1/2 inch, press and pin.

Pin the hem in place.
Pin the hem in place. (Image: Jill Sparks)

Sew close to the inside edge and then press.

The finished sleeve hem.
The finished sleeve hem. (Image: Jill Sparks)

Step 15: Sew Up the Sides

With right sides together, pin the side seams from the foot to the wrist. Sew, finish the seams and press. Repeat on the opposite side.

Pin up the side seams.
Pin up the side seams. (Image: Jill Sparks)
Sew, then finish the seams and press.
Sew, then finish the seams and press. (Image: Jill Sparks)

Step 16: Attach the Tail

Take the open end of the tail and turn in the seam allowance to the inside. Press.

Turn in the raw edges and press.
Turn in the raw edges and press. (Image: Jill Sparks)

Pin the tail to the edge on the right-hand side of the fabric on the right, just below the extended edge.

Pin the tail in place.
Pin the tail in place. (Image: Jill Sparks)

Tip

  • Make sure the stuffing isn't in the seam line.

With the right sides together, pin the center back together, stopping at the extended edge. Sew at a 1/2-inch seam allowance, stopping at the extended edge. Finish the seam and press.

Pin, sew and finish the seam of the center back.
Pin, sew and finish the seam of the center back. (Image: Jill Sparks)

Step 17: Hem the Legs

Turn up the hem 1/2 inch and press. Turn up another 1/2 inch, press and pin.

Pin the leg hems.
Pin the leg hems. (Image: Jill Sparks)
Sew the hem.
Sew the hem. (Image: Jill Sparks)

Step 18: Sew the Inner Leg Seams

Pin up the inner leg seams and sew with a 1/2-inch seam allowance. Finish the seams and press.

The finished inner leg seams.
The finished inner leg seams. (Image: Jill Sparks)

Step 19: Apply Closure

On the wrong side, take the right back edge and fold back 1/4 inch. Press. Then fold that back a 1/2 inch and press.

Fold back a 1/4-inch and press.
Fold back a 1/4-inch and press. (Image: Jill Sparks)
Fold back by a 1/2-inch and press.
Fold back by a 1/2-inch and press. (Image: Jill Sparks)

On the right side of the fabric (underneath the just folded-over portion), lay the loop strip (the soft fuzzy strip) from the top to the bottom of the back opening, pinning in place.

On the right side of the costume, pin the loop strip in place.
On the right side of the costume, pin the loop strip in place. (Image: Jill Sparks)

At the bottom, cut the strip just above the opening.

Cut the strip just before the opening.
Cut the strip just before the opening. (Image: Jill Sparks)

Sew from the top, down the strip and around back up. Press on the wrong side.

Sew the loop strip.
Sew the loop strip. (Image: Jill Sparks)
The sewn loop strip.
The sewn loop strip. (Image: Jill Sparks)

Repeat on the opposite side of the opening with the hook tape.

Costume Complete

Get ready for year-round dress up, because your little fox will pounce in excitement all over the place in this costume.

Fox tail
Fox tail (Image: Jill Sparks)

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