How to Celebrate Russian Christmas

From the 1917 Revolution until the fall of Communism, Christmas had a rather tenuous status in the Soviet Union-although the holiday was officially frowned upon, many enterprising citizens turned it into a New Year's festival, complete with a Santa-like figure called "Grandfather Frost." Today, Christmas is in favor again, but as with many things in Russia, there are some slight differences-such as the fact that Russian Christmas is observed on January 7. Here's how to welcome Grandfather Frost the right way.

Difficulty:

Easy

Instructions

1. Work up an appetite. In the Eastern Orthodox faith, it's customary to fast on Christmas Eve Day (January 6), then gather together for a big meal when the first star is sighted in the sky (or, if it's cloudy out, after the sunset). Just like the western variety, Russian Christmas--also known as the Feast of Saint Nicholas--is a joyous time for family and friends, so be sure to invite all the usual people.

2. Make a big bowl of kutya. Because of the holiday's association with Lent, meat is forbidden during Russian Christmas. Instead, it's traditional to serve kutya, a vegetarian porridge consisting of various types of wheat and grain sweetened with honey, along with such side dishes as fresh fruit, beans, and potatoes. (One tradition you may want to discourage involves tossing a spoonful of kutya at the ceiling: if the porridge sticks, that's a good omen for the future.)

3. Observe the pre-meal rituals. If you're planning to go strictly by the book, the Feast of Saint Nicholas involves a host of Eastern Orthodox traditions, ranging from a traditional greeting and response ("Christ is born?" "Glorify him!") to the painting of honey crosses on the assembled guests' foreheads. (During the meal, honey and garlic are symbolic of the sweetness and sorrow of life-which is uncannily similar to a Passover Seder).

4. Go to church. In Russia, the big Christmas service is conducted not on Christmas morning, but on Christmas Eve-and it lasts until 2 or 3 in the morning. Since you may or may not have a Russian Orthodox church anywhere nearby, it's okay to sit in your living room instead, singing traditional songs and opening presents.

5. Gather around the yolka. No, it's not a giant egg yolk-a "yolka" is actually the Russian version of a Christmas tree, introduced to the country in the 17th century by the ever-westernizing Peter the Great. Because ornaments were too expensive for most peasant families, the yolka is traditionally decorated with homespun decorations and the occasional piece of fruit.