Things You'll Need
Chisel or utility knife
Heat gun or hair dryer
Pipe wrench and caps
Tile or other flooring
Paint, wall paper or other wall covering
An unused corner shower can be taking up a great deal of space in a bathroom. Removing the shower can free additional space along two walls, making room for additional storage, or for installation of laundry appliances. Fortunately for homeowners, removing a corner shower is a simple job that requires just a little time and know-how to complete.
Shut off the water to the bathroom at the main water valve, located near the hot water heater. Then drain any remaining water in the pipes by turning on the shower and letting any water run out.
Video of the Day
Unscrew the hardware in the shower. This will involve removing the shower valve face plate, the shower head, the shower drain and any brackets holding a shower door in place.
Remove the shower surround and floor. If the surround is made of tile, use a hammer and either a utility knife or a chisel held at a 45-degree angle to the tile and break away the tile from its backer.
If the surround is made of acrylic or fiberglass, use a utility knife to loosen the adhesive behind around the edges and pull the surround free with a crow bar. If the adhesive is extremely strong, a heat gun or hair dryer can be used to soften and loosen it.
Remove the shower valve from the pipes and cap the pipes off. Any remaining pipes leading to the shower head, and from the shower drain should be capped or filled as well.
Remove any tile backerboard on the walls and replace it with sheet rock. Screw the sheet rock directly into the studs, being careful not to tighten the screws down too far, cracking the sheet rock.
Level off the floor where the shower pitched to the drain by creating a floor mortar bed. This will leave a clean, flat surface ready for tiling or finishing with another flooring material. Create the mortar bed by mixing 1 part Portland cement, or common cement, to 5 parts damp sand. Slowly add a small amount of water to this mixture until the mortar clumps together when squeezed in the hand.
Trowel the floor mortar evenly across the area where the new tile will be laid. Check with a level to determine that the area is completely leveled off and is ready to accept new tile. The floor at this section will need to match evenly with the floor in the rest of the bathroom once the new tile or finished floor is installed. Take into account the thickness of the tile when laying the mortar bed.
Plaster the sheet rock on the walls and prepare the walls to receive paint, wallpaper or tile; whichever will match the rest of the bathroom. Keep in mind that the entire room may need to be repainted to ensure a perfect match in color from one section to the next.
Finish the floor by continuing the bathroom tile or flooring into the area that once held the shower. Be sure to match the tile and the grout color for a seamless job.
If the ceiling was tiled above the shower, and a shower light recessed, the light and tile should be removed and the ceiling patched to remove all traces of the shower.