How to Build a Small Boat Dock
Manufactured docks are expensive. Likewise, having a professional build a dock also comes with a price. As an alternative, boat owners who are handy can build their own dock suitable for small watercraft. Whether you're seeking a place to moor your bass boat, park your WaveRunner or as a perch to cast out a fishing line from, this plan for a rectangular dock may be ideal. Does this Spark an idea?
Things You'll Need
- 49 feet of 2 x 10 inch lumber
- 81 feet of 1 x 6 inch lumber
- 20 feet of 2 x 4 inch lumber
- 4 steel angle brackets, 3/16 x 8 x 20 with 1 1/2-inch attached pipe sleeves
- 4 metal bars, 1 7/8-inch diameter
- 2 Styrofoam billets, 10 x 20, 8 feet long
- 4-inch galvanized nails
- 3-inch galvanized nails
- Hex head machine bolts, 9/16 x 3-inch
- Nuts, 9/16-inch
- Washers, 5/8-inch
- Tape Measure
- Carpenter's Square
- Pencil
- Circular Saw
- Hammer
- Drill
- 9/16-inch wood bit
- Crosscut saw
- Wrench, 7/8-inch
- Socket wrench, 7/8-inch
- Pry bar
Instructions
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Preparation
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1
Precut frame lumber to size. Use a circular saw to cut four 2x10x8-foot lengths. Continue by cutting four 2x10 sections to four feet minus twice the width of the lumber to ensure a square dock during assembly.
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2
Precut floor joists to size. Cut two 1x6x8-foot lengths minus twice the width of the 2x10 lumber.
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3
Precut deck lumber to size. Cut 16 lengths of 1x6 to four feet.
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4
Precut retainers to size. Cut 12 lengths of 2x4 to 16 inches.
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5
Pre-cut Styrofoam billets to size using a crosscut saw. Saw four 4-foot lengths minus twice the width of the 2x10 lumber.
Frame
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6
Assemble the first tier of the frame using a hammer and 4-inch galvanized nails. Nail two 4-foot lengths of 2x10 to the inside ends of two 8-foot lengths.
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7
Position a steel angle bracket flush with the bottom of one corner of the frame. Mark the holes with a pencil. Repeat at each corner.
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8
Use a drill and 9/16-inch wood bit to bore the marks. Attach brackets to each corner using 9/16-inch bolts, nuts and 5/8-inch washers. Position hardware so nuts and washers are on the inside of the frame. Tighten using a 7/8-inch wrench and socket.
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9
Use the same materials and measurements to construct a second tier of the frame. Position the second tier on top of the first and inside the angle brackets. Attach the second tier to the brackets so it is flush with the top of the brackets.
Billets & Joists
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10
Place the four Styrofoam billets inside the frame. Position two along the walls of the four-foot section of the frame and the others spaced equally in the middle.
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11
Install the floor joists perpendicular to foam. Measure and mark along the top of the frame on the four foot ends. Mark at 16 and 32 inches on both sides. Center the floor joists between these marks and nail using 4-inch galvanized nails.
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12
Install retainers to floor joists to keep Styrofoam from moving. Position retainers vertically with eight inches hanging below the joists. Use two retainers to hold foam on the outside in position and four for the inner sections. Hammer using 4-inch galvanized nails.
Deck & Launch
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13
Square the dock before nailing decking. Use the 6 x 8 x 10 method. Measure from one corner six feet to one side and 8 feet to the other and mark. Measure between marks--the space should be exactly 10 feet. Repeat on each side. Use a long pry bar at the frame corners, if adjustments are necessary.
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14
Attach deck lumber to the frame perpendicular to joists. Hammer using 3-inch galvanized nails.
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15
Launch the dock into water. Set in position by sliding metal bars into the pipe sleeves on the corner brackets. Do not drive poles deeply to ensure easy retrieval later.
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1
Tips & Warnings
Determine the length of metal anchoring bars before purchase by checking the water depth where you intend to moor the dock.
Build this dock as close to the water as possible and enlist the help of friends to avoid injury while launching.
References
- Photo Credit row boats on mooring image by Thor from Fotolia.com