How to Make a Custum Bookcase

A bookcase may look easier to build than it actually is, but there is no denying that of all the standard pieces of wooden furniture that an amateur can attempt, the bookcase is perhaps the least likely to engender frustration. Bookcases make delightfully decorative additions even when they are not used as a showcase for your literary collection.

Difficulty:

Moderately Challenging

Instructions

Things You'll Need

• 4-by-8 foot piece of plywood, 1 3/4 inches thick
• 4-by-8 foot piece of plywood, 1 1/4 inches thick
• 8 feet of 2 3/4-by-1 5/8 inch panel molding
• 6 feet of 1 3/4-by-3/4 inch cove molding
• 8 feet of 2 3/4-by-3/4 inch quarter round molding
• 6 feet of 1 3/4-by-2 5/8 inch chair rail molding
• Wood screws
• Drill
• Finish nails
• Brads
• 3/4-inch wire nails
• Veneer edge tape
• Wood glue
• Compass
• Jigsaw

Building the Frame

1. Cut the sides and the front rail to size from your 3/4-inch thick plywood. Sand the wood smooth. Cut two strips of veneer edge tape so that it is just a little longer than the long edge of the side of the bookcase. Position the tape along one long edge of both of the side pieces of wood. Heat the tape in order to facilitate adhesion.

2. Use a pencil to draw a line for cutting across each side about 2 1/2 inches up from the edge of the bottom. Place marks on the bottom edges of the side about 5 1/2 inches set in from the front and rear edges. Use a compass to make a 2 1/2 inch radius arc. This is best done by using the marks on the bottom edge as your center points. Place the point of the compass close to the bottom edge of the sides. Cut the arch with a jigsaw. Repeat to make the arch in the front rail by placing the compass point 4 3/4 inches from each end of the front rail.

3. Cut the top, bottom and top rail of the bookcase to size and sand to a smooth finish. Draw lines over the face of the sides 3 1/4 inches from the bottom edges. Place the sides on the edge so that the bottom is positioned between them, making sure it is place slightly above the reference marks. Attach bottom to sides using glue and wood screws, but make sure keep the front edges flush. Drill 5/64-inch pilot holes for your screws. The holes should be counterbored to 1/8 inch deep.

4. Upright the sides and place the front rail between them so that they are flush with the edges of the side and bottom. Glue the rail edges and clamp to the bottom. Drill 1/16-inch pilot holes, then drive finish nails through the sides and drill 1 1/4-inch brads through the bottom in order to secure the front rail. Attach the top to the top edges of the sides with glue and finish nails, making sure to keep the edges flush. Fasten the top rail between the sides and use glue and finish nails to secure.

Building the Back

1. Cut the backing braces to size. Place the bookshelf frame on its side. Begin at the bottom using glue and 1 1/4-inch brads to attach the back braces to the sides and to the top. Position 1/4 inch from the the back edges.

2. Use a 3/4-inch spacer to make spaces for the shelves to fit between the strips. Make sure the top back brace is flush with the back edge of the top when before installation. Place the frame on its front edges.

3. Cut the back to size and then set it into place so that it rests on the back braces. Make sure it is set squarely by taking a diagonal measurement from corner to corner across the back. If the measurements are the same, then it is square.

4. Hammer 3/4-inch wire nails through the back and into the braces. The back should not be glued into place and does not need glue as extra support for the wire nails.

Building the Shelves

1. Cut the shelves as well as the shelf nosing to size and then drill 1/16-inch pilot holes through the nosing. Attach the nosing to the shelves using glue and finish nails, making sure that the top edges are flush.

2. Cut the cleats of the shelf to proper length. Draw reference lines so that they are perpendicular to the front edges of both sides to facilitate positioning of the cleats. Begin the lines at the top of the lower back braces and draw them to 1 inch of the front edges of the side pieces.

3. Position the cleats on the reference lines and apply glue to the cleats. Attach the cleats to the inside face of each side with 1-inch brads. Apply glue to the top edges of the shelf cleats and then position the shelves onto the cleats.

4. Hammer finish nails through the sides and into the edges of the shelves. Hammer 3/4-inch wire nails into the back edges of the shelves. Sand the edges to a smooth finish. Apply primer and two coats of enamel paint.