How to Put on a Roof

When the shingles on the roof begin to curl, grow moss or show signs of spider web cracks, it's time to get a new roof. When this happens you need to find the square footage of your house, check your budget and visit your local home improvement store to find the best shingles you can afford. Shingles with a 25-year warranty and 15-pound felt paper will last a while. But the best roofing materials are come with a 30-year warranty or more and 30-pound paper.

Things You'll Need

• Plastic or canvas tarp Wheel barrow Shingle scraper or square shovel and pitch fork Dumpster or dump trailer Hammer Magnet on an extension to remove nails from area Drip edge Ice and water shield Roofing felt Utility knife Tape measure Framing Square Chalk line Power roofing nailer Roofing nails Shingles

Instructions

1. Rent a dumpster to hold the debris. If you have a dump trailer you want to use, remember you have to take the debris to the dump yourself.

2. Put down a layer of protective material on the side of the house you're stripping. Tarp is best since plastic sheeting could burn the lawn. This catches all the loose nails and shingles that fall when you strip the roof. It's particularly important near spots where cars park. Cover the air conditioning units to protect them.

3. Scrape off the shingles with a shingle scraper for the fastest results. The size of the area you'll strip depends on the weather, how many people you have working and if you have tarp for the roof in case the weather turns. This toothed shovel makes quick work of removal and is worth the investment. Simply slide the shove under the shingles and lift. A claw hammer comes in handy to pull nails that remain in the wood sheathing. Transfer the shingles from the ground to a wheelbarrow and throw them into the dumpster.

4. Inspect the wood sheathing for areas that you need to replace due to water damage. Check all the nails on the existing sheathing and hammer down any loose ones. Remove any roofing nails left in the sheathing. You probably already removed the metal drip edge with roofing and need to replace it. Use 1 1/4-inch roofing nails to apply to the outer edge of the sheeting on the roof perimeter. Check the roof boot around vent pipe for disrepair, roof vents and the flashing around the chimney. Replace all worn pieces.

5. Lay the ice and water shield on the roof. During cold months, the heat from your home melts the bottom of the snow and water trickles to the edge. Once it's on the edge, it refreezes, dams the gutters and causes water to go back under the lower shingles. The wind also drives rain under the lower rows of shingles and water eventually makes its way to your ceiling. The ice and water shield is a membrane that protects the outer area of the roof from that damage and often required by building code. The membrane is self-adhesive.

6. Roll out the rolled roofing felt across the lower edge of the roof. If you have a break before you come to the other edge, overlap the felt 4 inches when you begin on a fresh roll. Start the next roll above the first with a 2-inch overlap on the top edge of the first row. When you come to the peak, overlap it 6 inches. Use roofing nails or staples to attach the felt.

7. Cut the ends of the shingle off at the cutouts between the tabs. This leaves a very small section of shingle and the tar strip area. Line the cut shingles along the drip edge starting at the eaves. Use four nails per shingle. Complete the first row.

8. Snap two chalk lines, one horizontal one for the next row so the shingle hangs 3/8-inch over the drip edge at the eaves and the other perpendicular for a vertical reference to keep alternating rows straight. For this line, measure the width of the roof from drip edge to drip edge in feet and inches. If the measurement for is less than 6 inches, add 6 inches and divide the number in half. Measure from the edge and snap the chalk line from top to bottom. Measure 6 inches from either side of the vertical snap line and snap another line.

9. Line the next row of shingles so the edge lines up with the bottom edge of the first, covering it up entirely. Use the vertical snap lines as a guide and line up shingles at the edge alternating between the two. They should overlap as they go up so the bottom of the row above is at the top of the cutouts of the row underneath. Use four nails per shingle. When you reach the edge, cut it so it covers the drip edge. Make any cuts necessary for valleys.