Things You'll Need:
- Window Fans
- Acrylic Paints
- Drop Cloths
- Glazes
- Paint
- Paint Trays
- Paintbrushes
- Roller/tray Sets
- Window Fans
- Acrylic Paints
- Drop Cloths
- Paint
- Paintbrushes
- Foam Brushes
- Rubber Gloves
- Rubber Gloves
- Buckets
- Ladders
- Ladders
- Paint trays
- Paintbrushes
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Step 1
Paint the wall a solid color. This will be your background color.
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Step 2
Allow the paint to dry for at least 4 hours, or overnight.
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Step 3
Select an acrylic paint color that contrasts nicely with the background color.
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Step 4
Prepare and tint a glaze with the acrylic paint you've chosen to create your desired glaze color.
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Step 5
Pour the tinted glaze into a roller tray.
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Step 6
Decide what type of faux finish you'd like for the room. Sponging and ragging on are the easiest to do and are best for bumpy or irregular walls; dragging and stippling are more difficult and require a smooth wall surface. (See Related eHows on each of these techniques for more information.)
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Step 7
Practice the technique you've chosen on a painted piece of cardboard or wood until you're able to produce the desired effect.
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Step 8
Apply the tinted glaze to the wall using the materials and technique appropriate to the faux finish you've selected.
















Comments
ginsterbp said
on 10/18/2009 There is a new website www.methodfinishing.com where you can learn from the pros either one technique for about $6 or more for either a quarterly or yearly price too.. easy to do.. watch and learn.
Anonymous said
on 1/13/2006 I have found very little difference between eggshell and satin basecoats with regard to extending open time during a finish, in fact one should be cautious as to the use of semigloss basecoats when using alkyd glazes. The surface may be to smooth to support a thin medium. Semigloss bases are suitable for some waterborne glaze techniques where a certain luminosity is desired from within the finish. As far as matte basecoats are concerned; washable flats,can support very thin highly translucent oil base glazes to create very subtle yet extremely distressed broken or abstract vein washes. Remember, whatever base you choose, use the highest quality materials available.
To extend open time for oil glazes use kerosene instead of spirits to thin with. For waterborne use Flotrol and a few drops of Dawn dish washing liquid. Always apply 2 thin even coats and let cure 6 to 12 hours. Have fun.
Anonymous said
on 11/22/2005 Virtually all faux paint effects require a somewhat slick surface so the faux will dry slower. Regardless of whether your faux medium is oil or latex, do not attempt to faux on a flat (matte-finish) wall. Best results will be obtained when your basecoat is either satin or preferably semi-gloss. The more matte finishes of eggshell and flat are a nightmare to faux over. Both oil and latex work equally well as a basecoat, as long as it's completely dry. Remember, your basecoat will be the lightest color in your faux wall and will affect all other colors that you put over it. So choose your basecoat color carefully. In most cases you'll want to start with a white or light-colored wall.
Anonymous said
on 11/22/2005 Once you have the paint prepared, you spray a thin layer of water on a wall, then roll on a thin layer of paint on the wall then quickly bunch up plastic bags and turning them in different directions, blot them on the walls to remove paint.
Anonymous said
on 11/22/2005 To extend dry time and workability, use a glaze extender instead of water or thinner. Use as many colors as you like, including your base color, to achieve a more "layered look."