DIY Garage Storage Sliding Doors


Safely keep your tools, clothes, appliances and holiday gear by building a storage cabinet with sliding doors for your garage. With some lumber and plywood, you can build a 7-foot tall cabinet to prevent even your bulkiest possessions from catching dust and mold. Decide later if you'd rather install shelves or hooks, or both, based on your needs.

Things You'll Need

  • Miter saw
  • Brad nail gun
  • Cordless drill
  • Circular saw
  • Socket/ratchet set
  • Stud finder
  • 4-in-1 screwdriver
  • Adjustable wrench
  • Chalk line
  • Level, 4-feet high
  • Drill bit set
  • Framing square
  • Hacksaw
  • Stepladder
  • Speed square
  • Construction adhesive
  • 2 bottom frame pieces, 2-by-4-inch wood, 189 inches long
  • 13 crosspieces, 2-by-4-inch wood, 20-3/4 inches long
  • 2 top frame pieces, 2-by-2-inch wood, 189 inches long
  • 13 crosspieces, 2-by-2-inch wood, 20-3/4 inches long
  • 8 upright frame pieces, 2-by-2-inch wood, 81-3/4-inches long
  • 10 upright crosspieces, 2-by-2-inch wood, 20-3/4 inches long
  • 10 upright crosspieces, 2-by-2-inch wood, 15-3/4-inches long
  • 2 top and bottom plywood pieces, 1/2-by-23-3/4-inch wood, 96 inches long
  • 2 top and bottom plywood pieces, 1/2-by-23-3/4-inch wood, 93 inches long
  • 3 upright plywood pieces, 1/2-by-23-3/4-inch wood, 81-3/4 inches long
  • 1 outside upright plywood piece, 1/2-by-23-3/4-inch wood, 87-3/4 inches long
  • 4 upright plywood pieces, 1/2-by-18-3/4-inch wood, 81-3/4 inches long
  • 2 upright trim pieces for the center, 3/4-by-2-1/2-inch wood, 81-3/4 inches long
  • 1 upright trim piece for the right side, 3/4-by-3-1/2-inch wood, 87-3/4 inches long
  • 1 upright trim piece for the outer left side, 3/4-by-2-1/2-inch wood, 87-3/4 inches long
  • 1 bottom horizontal trim piece, 3/4-by-4-inch wood, 185 inches long
  • 1 top horizontal trim piece, 3/4-by-3-1/2-inch wood, 185 inches long
  • 6 doors, 1-3/8-by-32-by-80 inches long
  • 24 lag screws, 1-by-4-4 inches
  • 24 washers, 1/4-inches
  • 3-inch deck screws
  • 1-1/2-inch finish nails
  • 2-inch finish nails
  • 16 hollow wall anchors
  • 2 hex head machine screws, 6-by-5/16 inches
  • 6 hex head machine screws, 4-by-5/16 inches
  • 8 hex head nuts, 5/16-inches
  • 16 washers, 5/16-inches
  • 2 tracks, 96 inches long
  • 12 single wheel hangers
  • 5 bypass door guides

The Base

  • Measure 24 inches up from the ground and mark a chalk line across the wall. This is where the top of the lower frame will sit. Use a stud finder to locate the wall studs and mark with chalk.

  • Cut four legs from 2-by-4-inch wood, measuring 20-1/2 inches tall. Nail 2 to the wall a distance apart that equals the width you want the cabinet to be, using the smaller finish nails. Attach two cleats – a strip of wood to support the frame – to the other two legs. These temporary legs will support the frame while you build the base.

  • Nail the base together: the two bottom frame pieces with the 13 crosspieces spaced evenly apart. Rest the base on the legs. Drill screws through the cleat to temporarily attach the front legs to the base. Use a level to ensure the frame is even on all sides, before continuing. Attach the frame to the studs (as marked) using lag screws. Assemble the top frame the same way, but using the 2-by-2-inch top frame pieces with crosspieces.

  • Nail the two plywood pieces, pairing the smaller piece with the larger piece to cover the top of the base. Repeat this step for the top frame, but make sure to cover the bottom of the frame with plywood.

The Walls

  • Assemble the outer upright panels of the cabinet. Nail two of the 2-by-2 upright frame pieces (81-3/4-inches long) with five of the 2-by-2 upright crosspieces (20-3/4 inches long). Repeat this step for the second outer upright panel.

  • Attach two of the 1/2-inch upright plywood pieces to cover both sides of one outer panel. This will be the upright panel against the wall.

  • Attach the third 1/2-inch upright plywood piece and the longer 1/2-inch upright plywood piece (at 87-3/4 inches long) to cover the second outer panel. The latter upright piece is purposely longer to give the cabinet a nice finish.

  • Assemble the two inner panels of the cabinet. Attach the last two of the 2-by-2 upright frame pieces (81-3/4-inches long) with five of the 2-by-2 upright crosspieces (15-3/4-inches long). Attach two of the 1/2-inch upright plywood pieces (81-3/4 inches long) on both sides of the frame. Repeat this step twice for the second inner panel.

  • Line up the uprights with the frame before nailing, and using the 4-foot level to make sure all is even. Secure the uprights into the wall with screw-in drywall anchors.

  • Take the spade bit and drill a 3/8-inch hole through the bottom 2-by-2, up through the frame and plywood.

  • Use the larger hex-head machine screws, washers and nuts to secure the outside upright panels to the base. Secure the inner upright panels to the base the same way, but use the smaller hex-head machine screws.

  • Take the top frame and lift it up over the uprights. Then attach the top frame to the wall with lag screws, nailing the top frame to where it meets the uprights.

Trim and Doors

  • Remove the temporary legs from the cabinet. Use the 2-inch nails to install the vertical and horizontal trim.

  • Mount the two track sections – an inner and outer track – behind the top trim, using the drill. Drill the hangers to the back of each door, with two on each door. Lift the doors and try to hook the wheels onto the track. Climb inside the cabinet to straighten the doors so that they fall flush with one another.

  • Install the door guides 2-5/8 inches from behind the bottom trim. Place the guides where the doors overlap, so that the doors slide easily when opening.

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