How to Build a Hexagon Deck

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Patience is essential for building a deck with angles.
Patience is essential for building a deck with angles.

A hexagonal deck provides a true challenge to your framing skills. You’ll need a good set of plans to follow, drawn up by an architect or engineer if you don’t have the requisite drafting skills. A hexagonal design works well as either a freestanding deck in a yard or one kept low to the ground.

Things You'll Need

  • Mallet
  • Stakes
  • Strings
  • Shovel
  • Post-hole digger
  • Precast concrete piers
  • Gravel
  • 2-by-4
  • Deck boards
  • 2-by-6 joists
  • Chop saw
  • Hammer
  • 10d nails
  • Measuring tape
  • Carpenter's pencil
  • Chalk reel
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Instructions

    • 1

      Knock temporary stakes in place with a mallet and tie strings between them to designate the outer dimensions of the hexagonal deck. Dig holes for the precast concrete piers at each place indicated by the plans -- at each of the hexagon’s 60-degree angles, as well as one in the center -- with a shovel or post-hole digger. The piers typically lie at 1 o’clock, 3 o’clock, 5 o’clock, 7 o’clock, 9 o’clock and 11 o’clock of the project, if viewed from above.

    • 2

      Pour gravel into the holes and top with a pier. Lay a 12-foot 2-by-4 or deck board across each of the piers and the central pier topped by a spirit level to check that the piers are level. Add or remove gravel to accurately level the piers.

    • 3

      Place a 12-foot joist per your architectural plans -- typically a 2-by-6, but it may be larger depending on design considerations -- in the cross grooves of two facing concrete piers and across the central pier. Use a precast pier without grooves in its top for the central pier, so that the ends of cut joists can meet the solid master joists. Cut additional joists -- provisionally around 6 feet long, if the entire deck is 12 feet across -- to connect from the other piers to the master joist, beveling their edges to fit and toenailing them with 10d nails.

    • 4

      Add additional 2-by-6 blocking to support the joists, running between the piers at 11 and 3 o’clock and between the piers at 9 o’clock and 5 o’clock, meeting at the joist running between 1 o’clock and 7 o’clock, as well as halfway in between the two, meeting at the central pier. Drive stakes into the ground beside each joist about 2 feet in from the perimeter to lend rigidity to the structure.

    • 5

      Cut, bevel and screw in place lengths of 2-by-6 lumber -- termed fascia, as they provide a facing for the underside of the deck -- connecting the joists from one pier to the next to outline the outer edge of the deck and provide support for the ends of deck boards.

    • 6

      Lay the first deck board so its edge touches the center of the master joist and so each end overhangs the fascia by at least 2 inches. Nail or screw the deck board in place along the master joist and where it crosses additional joists or blocking. Continue adding boards, spacing them the width of a 10d nail until the surface is complete. Mark an octagonal outline allowing for a 2-inch deck board overlap of the fascia on the surface of the deck boards. Snap a chalk line to mark the outline and saw off the board excess.

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  • Photo Credit Ryan McVay/Photodisc/Getty Images

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