How to Build a Loft Bed Suspended Partly by the Ceiling

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Loft beds are a popular solution to limited space in the bedroom, elevating the bed far above your other essential furniture so that you have the comfort of a larger space. One disadvantage of most loft beds is that you have to configure your under-bed space to fit within the perimeter of the bed legs. However, if you remove the legs and build the bed into the wall and partly into the ceiling, you can eliminate this barrier and organize your space freely.

Things You'll Need

  • Measuring tape
  • Saw
  • 2-by-8-inch lumber
  • 2-by-4-inch lumber
  • 2-by-2-inch lumber
  • 4-by-8-inch plywood
  • 3-inch countersunk screws
  • Drill
  • 3/8-inch lag eye bolt
  • Stud finder
  • Quick links
  • 4-inch countersunk screws
  • Chain
  • 1-inch screws
  • Saw 2-by-8-inch lumber into two side rails that measure between 75 inches and 87 inches in length, and two end rails that measure between 40 inches and 73 inches. These measurements are completely dependent upon the size of the mattress.

  • Cut 2-by-4-inch lumber into at least four slats to lie across the inside of the bed, measuring exactly the same width as the end rails.

  • Divide 2-by-2-inch lumber into slat support rails upon which the slat supports will rest. These should measure the length of the side rails, less 3 inches to account for the 1 1/2-inch thickness of the 2-by-8-inch lumber. Cut additional 2-by-2-inch lumber to make two wall cleats that measure the length and width of the bed.

  • Trim down 4-by-8-foot plywood that measures 1/2-inch thick to rest atop the slats and provide for the mattress support.

  • Butt the end rails perpendicular against the side rails, overlapped by the side rails and flush with the edges to create an even rectangle. Use five 3-inch countersunk screws to secure the adjoining pieces.

  • Place the slat support rails on the inside of the frame in line with the bottom and flush with the edge. Secure it in place with two 3-inch countersunk screws, placing one above the other and spacing each couple every 6 inches.

  • Measure 5 1/2 inches from the edge of each rail in the unsupported corner and drill a 3/8-inch wide by 4-inch deep hole through the top, so that this corner of the frame forms a right triangle with a hypotenuse that measures roughly 7 3/4 inches.

  • Twist into place a 3/8-inch lag eye bolt in each hole, so that the eyes face one another.

  • Determine the distance of this corner from the wall and locate the nearest outside ceiling joist using a stud finder, marking its location with a pencil.

  • Drill a 3/8-inch hole into the ceiling joist and insert an identical lag eye bolt into the joist. Attach a quick link to this bolt.

  • Locate the studs in your wall using a hand-held stud finder. Mark them at the level where you want the bottom of the bed to hang.

  • Line up the first wall cleat against the wall and ensure that it is level. Secure it to the wall using one 4-inch countersunk screw in every stud. Repeat this for the second.

  • Lift the bed into position, with help if you need it, and set it atop the cleats, ensuring that the corner is flush.

  • Feed a large length of chain through the bolts on the corner of the bed and bring one end of the chain to the quick link in the ceiling. Pull up the other side of the chain until you reach the quick link, ensuring that the chain is tense when the bed is level, and that the bed hangs evenly and flat against the cleats. Cut the extra chain and attach a quick link to both sides of the length needed. Attach the quick links on all three bolts to one another.

  • Step inside the bed frame area, and screw the side and head rails into the wall, placing five 4-inch countersunk screws into every stud. Step out of the frame when finished. For extra security, place 3-inch countersunk screws through the bottom of the bed frame, through the cleats, spacing them evenly.

  • Lay the slats across the slat supports, spaced evenly. Screw them into place with 3-inch countersunk screws placed on both ends. Cover the slats with the plywood.

  • Cut 2-by-4-inch lumber into two side pieces and enough rungs to allow you to climb to the bed, if you wish to build your own ladder. Secure each rung between the side pieces using 3-inch countersunk screws and lay the ladder flat against the side of the bed.

  • Use 1-inch screws and one corner bracket on both sides of the ladder to secure it to the bed.

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