How to Sew a Hem on a Sewing Machine
A sewing machine makes fast work of hemming a shirt, dress or other garment, as well as household items such as drapes. Knowing how to sew a simple hem allows you to shorten pant legs that are too long or extend a hem for a growing child. You can sew a simple hem in which the stitching shows on the outside of the garment, or use specialty stitches to mimic the look of a hand-sewn blind hem.
Things You'll Need
- Ruler or measuring tape
- Straight pins
- Tailor's chalk
- Iron
- Sewing machine with hem stitch or blind stitch function
- Scissors
Instructions
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Top-stitched Hem
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1
Measure the amount of fabric you want to hem with the ruler or measuring tape and mark with a straight pin or tailor's chalk.
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2
Turn under 1/4 inch of the fabric and press. This conceals any raw edges that might unravel. If preferred, you can sew hem lace to the raw edge of the fabric instead of turning the edge under .
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3
Pin the hem up all the way around the garment. Press the pinned-up hem, then remove the pins.
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4
Turn your garment inside out so that the inside of the garment faces up. Make sure the hem is turned up along the line you just pressed. Sew a line of stitching as close to the edge of the folded-under fabric as possible, sewing the hem into place. Work slowly, striving to keep your line of stitches even.
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5
Turn the garment right side out. Check your line of stitches. You may sew a second line of stitches 1/8 to 1/4 inch from the first line for a decorative trim. This second line of stitches will also keep a knit garment from curling up at the hem.
Blind Hem
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6
Measure your hem and mark the hemline with tailor's chalk or with a straight pin.
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7
Finish the raw edge of the fabric by either turning it under 1/4 inch and pressing it into place, or covering the edge with hem tape or lace.
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8
Turn the hem under and pin into place, all the way around the garment. Use an iron to press the fabric.
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9
Fold the hem to the outside of the garment, with the pins still in place. You'll be folding the fabric roughly along the line where you would stitch the hem in place. Approximately 1/4 inch of the fabric you fold under to make your hem should extend beyond the folded edge of your garment.
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10
Flip the garment over so that the wrong side of the garment faces up. Looking down at the garment, to your left will be the bulk of the garment, with the hem folded back to the outside. Approximately 1/4 inch of the edge of the hem should extend beyond the garment, to the right of the fold.
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11
Set your machine to sew a blind hem stitch. Position the fabric beneath the presser foot so that the needle enters the edge of the folded-up fabric that protrudes to the right of the garment fold.
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12
Begin sewing slowly, moving the fabric so that the points of the zigzag stitches barely catch the folded edge of the garment. Sew all the way around the hem.
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13
Clip the thread and turn the garment right side out and smooth the hem. Remove all pins and tug lightly on the hem all the way around to set and straighten the hem stiches. Press the hem again if necessary.
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1
Tips & Warnings
If your machine has a special presser foot to use with the blind hem stitch, use this foot. It features a guide which makes sewing a straight line easier.
Choose thread that closely matches your fabric to hide your hem stitches. Choose contrasting thread to make the hem stitches part of your design.
References
- Photo Credit sewing machine image by pavel siamionov from Fotolia.com
