How to Build a Fishing Boat
Constructing a ferro-cement hull is the most challenging form of boatbuilding, since you create a hull framework from wire mesh and reinforcing rods. It requires skills in carpentry, pipe bending, tying steel, welding and concrete work as well as forethought and extensive preparation. A ferro-cement boat is quite suitable for fishing, since the added weight of the composite will provide a stable platform for casting and trolling.
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Things You'll Need
- 6 mm reinforcing rod (for frames and floors)
- 16 mm reinforcing rod (for keel)
- Welding machine and accessories (hood, etc)
- 16 gauge wire ties
- Wire tying tool
- 13-by-13 by-19 gauge wire mesh (as the anchor for the ferro-cement)
- Cement
- Plaster sand
- Cement mixer
- 1 x 10 planking for seating and decking
- Wood sealant
- Circular saw to cut planking
- Concrete nails to install planking
- Marine plywood (to build a fish well)
- Angle brackets (to mount the fish well to the deck)
- Hammer
- Nails
- Silicone sealant
Instructions
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How to Build a Fishing Boat
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1
Bend the 6 mm rod to form the frames for the boat. The frames are similar in shape to the frames used in the construction of a wood boat but, unlike wooden frames, must be reinforced by an additional cross brace.
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2
Invert the frames, spacing them evenly. Tack the keel to the frames with the welder. Then, using the 16 gauge wire ties, tie the sheer bars and 16 mm keel in place.
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3
Reinforce the stern/transom to carry the weight of an outboard motor, if desired, by welding an additional rod at the top of the stern. Reinforce the bow by adding an extra 6 mm bar at the top. Add stringers from 6 mm bar to the sides, bow, stern and bottom using 16 gauge wire ties.
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4
Lay the 13-by-13 by-19 gauge wire mesh over the stringers, both inside and outside of the hull. Tie to stringers, ribs, flooring stringers and bow and stern reinforcements at any point where the mesh comes in contact or crosses a support or stringer using the 16 gauge wire ties. Tie the inside mesh to the outside mesh every six inches. This completes the armature.
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5
Mix the plaster sand into the cement and water, mixing thoroughly. Beginning on the inside of the boat, apply ferro-cement to the finished armature. When the inside is complete, mortar the outside of the boat.
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6
Allow the ferro-cement to cure for 30 days. After the cement has cured, right the boat and fill the hull halfway with water to check for leaks. Re-mortar and cure repairs. Apply wood sealant to the 1-by-10 planking. When the boat has been water-tested, add seating as desired using the 1-by-10 planking and add decking to the floor, also with the 1-by-10 planking. Paint the marine plywood. Using the circular saw, cut the marine plywood and, with hammer and nails, construct a simple box to act as a fish well/box to contain the fish you catch. Seal the seams of the fish well with the silicone caulk, and attach the well to the decking with angle brackets and concrete nails. For fishing activities, mount a trolling motor and mount an outboard motor for the main power source.
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Tips & Warnings
Don't use a dirty mixer; you're mixing a fine cement, and pebbles, stones and such from previous mixing will cause gaps and, ultimately, leaks in the hull.
This is not a project for the faint of heart; caution is advised when working with the tools and methods described.
