Things You'll Need:
- Harp plans/schematics (including templates and complete measurements)
- Lumber (6 to 8 feet of 1.5 inch thick, 8 feet of ¼-inch thick hardwood)
- Band saw
- Tenon saw (optional)
- Miter saw
- Jointer
- Drill
- Chisel
- Taper reamer
- Sandpaper
- Sander
- Wood glue
- Pencil
- C-clamps
- Awl
- Varnish
- Measuring tape
- Level
- Bevel gauge
- Lathe
- Tuning pins
- Strings
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Step 1
Transfer the plans or pattern for the neck of the harp to a piece of wood 1.5 inches thick. You can trace out the outlines with pencil or trace it using the awl and punching small holes that the saw will follow later. Cut the neck out of the wood using the band saw. Sand the neck.
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Step 2
A taper reamerMark the places for the tuning pins on the neck following the template and drill them out. Use the taper reamer to make the holes the correct size for your pins.
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Step 3
Transfer the template for the pillar of the harp to a piece of wood and cut it out. Sand the pillar and smooth out the edges on the lathe.
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Step 4
A mortise and tenon jointFollow the plan and mark where indicated for the tenons on the pillar. The tenons are the chunks of wood at the top and bottom of the pillar that will join with the mortise or hole you will make in the neck and sound box for the two parts to fit together. Use a hand saw or tenon saw to cut the areas around the tenon away, leaving just the tenon.
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Step 5
Chisel out the mortise in the neck. The tenon should fit tightly into the mortise. Glue the tenon in the mortise and clamp the pieces together to dry for 36 hours.
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Step 6
Transfer the template for the sound box and sound board to the ¼-inch hardwood and cut the panels out. Use the jointer to "true" the edges, or make them match. Set the panels to the specified degree in the plans using the bevel gauge so that all of the panels come together at 45-degree angles. Miter the panels as indicated on the plans so that the panels will fit together when assembled.
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Step 7
The back of this larger harp has three separate sound holes.Trace the shape of the sound hole onto the back panel(s) and cut it out. Sand the opening.
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Step 8
Using the C-clamps to hold panels in place, assemble the sound box. Cut 2-inch shims out of the ½-inch thick wood and brace the inside corners with them. Glue in all of the braces.
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Step 9
Sand the sound box and trace its inside dimensions to create a template for the mortise block that will go there. Cut the mortise block and chisel out the mortise. Glue the mortise block into the sound box. Cut a piece of maple ½ inch thick for the string rib. It should be about 1½ inch at the base and taper to ½ inch at the top, and be about 1 inch shorter than the sound board. Glue the rib to the center of the sound board's inside-facing side.
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Step 10
Cut grooves into the sides of the sound box to slip the soundboard into, and insert the soundboard. If any of the panels are a little too long or not true, disassemble the sound box and soundboard and refit using the bevel gauge and level.
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Step 11
Chisel out the mortise for the pillar to fit into at the bottom of the soundboard. Mark where the strings will go into the soundboard. Insert the string eyelets into the sound board.
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Step 12
Glue together the sound box, base and soundboard, making sure to reinforce any joints that may need it. Spread the glue directly into the mitered slots and onto the edges of the panels. Clamp it all together and let it dry.
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Step 13
Put the pillar and neck together, making small adjustments to the tenon and mortise as necessary. Then fit the bottom of the pillar into the sound box, again making small adjustments as needed. When everything fits tightly and squarely, disassemble, coat the tenons with glue, reassemble and clamp.
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Step 14
Varnish the harp. When the varnish is dry, install the tuning pegs and put on the strings.
