How to Install Bathtub Grab Bars
Bathtub grab bars are a safe investment for your family and will help to ensure your peace of mind. The do-it-yourself-er can install the fixtures with the help of one other person. Assemble all supplies first, and follow these easy-to-understand directions. Does this Spark an idea?
Other People Are Reading
Things You'll Need
- Black waxy crayon or black fine point pen for marking Tape measure Bathtub silicone caulking Stud finder Screws, both anchor screws and plastic ones that spread behind the wall Philips head screwdriver Electric drill 1/8-inch drill bit; masonry for porcelain or glass tile 1/16-inch or 5/32-inch wood bit (smaller than the screw sizes) No. 10 or 12 stainless steel pan head screws Sharp awl Rag for clean-up
Instructions
-
Purchase and Preparation
-
1
Purchase wall- or floor-mounted grab bars that will support heavy loads (up to 1,000 pounds in some cases), and ones that will also attach permanently to the wall or floor. Safety bars are not difficult to install and will not leave permanent marks on fixtures, but these styles are constructed only for "assist" purposes.
-
2
Install a 24-inch bar, the one the National Kitchen and Bath Association (NKBA) recommends for the main side wall installation. They have also determined that a bar placed at a 45-degree angle from the rim of the tub is easiest for most people to use. That angle should also fit perfectly against standard 16-inch spaced studs (the vertical wood framing behind the walls).
-
-
3
Measure and mark. An angled bar with the bottom bar held at approximately 8 to 10 inches above the rim of the tub should be a good measure. Mark the height.
Locate the wall studs using a stud finder. Probe the hole with a nail to locate wood. You can also double-check by thumping on the wall with a knuckle---a hollow sound means you need to relocate.
The mounting flange typically has three holes. Generally only two of those will fit in a stud, which is why you have different screw types. Place the bar and mark inside each of the holes. -
4
Use a sharp awl to "scribe" the wall where you marked your holes. This friction scratching helps to ensure that your drill bit will not skate along the surface of the wall, damaging tile. Drill a 1/8-inch hole over your marks. (You can drill through masking tape if you are afraid to break the tile.)
-
5
Create the screw holes. A 1/4-inch glass or tile masonry bit can enlarge the holes for the manufacturer's screws. Following that with a 5/32-inch wood bit will make the pilot holes in the stud easier to drill into.
A plastic anchor should go into the holes that miss the stud. Plan on screwing these into the wall with No. 10 or 12 stainless steel pan head screws with a length of at least 1 inch or more.
Mount and Test
-
6
Do this job using two people---one holding the bar and the doing the mounting. Apply silicone caulk to the holes before mounting the bar. Finish the installation by screwing all holes properly. Do not over-tighten as the tiles may crack. You can run a bead of caulk around the fixture's edge, push with your finger into flange and clean off excess if needed.
-
7
Clean excess caulk off tiles and surrounding areas with a damp rag. Make sure that the bar can support your weight on a "test" pull-up.
-
8
Think about installing grab bars in shower stalls, or near toilets.
-
1
Tips & Warnings
Most bars are stainless but colored grab bars are available.
Try not to drill deeper than the depth of the tile. That's when changing to a smaller bit is recommended for the stud pilot hole.
Resources
- Photo Credit Clipart.com
