How to Sew Leather on a Standard Sewing Machine

Fifty percent of the questions I receive from potential customers have to do with sewing on leather. For me, success in sewing on leather has to do with the following items:

Difficulty: Easy

Instructions

1. Leather Sewing Needles (and Non-Leather Sewing Needles)
   
   For the most part, having leather sewing needles in your machine will make your job much easier. The needle is designed to actually cut the leather each time it pierces it. When working with several layers of leather I find my machine does better with smaller needles. I will commonly swap between 11, 14, and 16 size needles in leather and non-leather. So if you are having problems with skipped stitches or thread breaking on you, just try a different size needle.
   
   I did sew for over 6 months with standard sewing machine needles and was able to successfully complete many leather projects. They do work. However, you will notice less of a drag on your machine and less thread breakage when using leather needles.

2. Stitch Width
   
   Because leather needles actually cut the leather you can not use a small stitch width or you run the risk of perforating your leather and it will easily rip. I suggest doing a test run on a scrap piece of leather with the needle and thread you will be using to see what the widest stitch width your machine will handle is.
   
   My sewing machine will adjust up to a 6 stitch width but it does not perform well on leather at a 6. I do most of my leather sewing with a stitch width of 5 to 5-1/2. I never go smaller than 3-1/2.

3. Thread Tension
   
   Thin leather projects may not require an adjustment of your thread tension, but as your leather thickens your thread tension should decrease. If your thread is breaking often or you are missing stitches try adjusting your tension first.

4. Binder Clips
   
   You can not pin leather together or you will leave permanent and visible needle holes in the finished product. Most of the time, you can use standard binder or alligator clips to hold pieces together until you sew them.

5. Scotch Tape and Double Sided Tape
   
   If you are making leather appliqués you will want to have both scotch tape and double-sided tape on hand. Tear off several small pieces of scotch tape and use them to situate an appliqué piece prior to sewing. This allows you an opportunity to align the appliqué with the item or another appliqué. While sewing the leather piece on, just remove one small piece of tape at a time as you work your way around. This will make an amazing difference in how evenly your appliqués get sewn on and how well they align.
   
   The double sided tape allows you to place small pieces together and hold them securely while sewing them on. Be careful not to place tape to close too the edge or it will be visible after you have completed your appliqué.

6. Baby Powder
   
   Baby powder can act as your Teflon foot. Sprinkle a little on your work surface and when a piece of leather will not slide easily, either hand pat some powder on, or dab the leather piece in the powder; being sure to knock off all excess. Your leather will slide across the machine like a dream. You will need to blow out any excess powder from the bobbin area of your machine once you’ve completed your project. The powder will totally disappear from the shoes and it leaves a lovely fragrance behind.

7. Scrap Pieces of Fabric
   
   When assembling pieces of an appliqué together prior to sewing it onto your project, you will find it works much better if you lay the appliqué on a piece of scrap fabric. It makes it easier to maneuver it under the presser foot. Before sewing the appliqué to your project, turn it over and trim as much of the fabric off as possible.

8. Silver and Black Markers
   
   You can not pin pattern pieces to leather. The best way to cut the pattern pieces out is to trace the pattern directly onto the wrong side of the leather. While most pens will do the job adequately to start out with, they will quickly plug up and start skipping. I now use a black and a silver marker exclusively. The marker doesn’t plug up the way a pen does. The silver shows up on dark colors and the black on light colors.
   
   An ink pen is best when marking sewing lines on appliqués; smiles, eye brows, etc. I tried a disappearing ink pen once, but it disappears too fast. I just use a pen in the color of the thread I’m sewing on and it just reinforces the design and as the ink slowly disintegrates with each washing it’s not even noticeable.

9. Strong Thread
   
   You have to use a good durable thread when sewing with leather. I prefer Rayon as it doesn’t seem to break or shred as easily as cotton based or blends do. I have also used Quilting or embroidery thread and they work great as well. Before threading your machine take the thread and unwind a 12 inch piece from the spool; then stretch it tautly between your hands. If it breaks on you, it will break when sewing on leather.

10. Don’t Start at the End
    
    Start a 1/4 of an inch away from the edge when sewing on leather. Once you have completed your seam you can come back and sew from the other direction. It is easier to manipulate the leather under the foot of the machine with some room to hold each side of the leather. Always reverse forward at the end of a seam. This will help reinforce the edges and, as long as you are using a wide stitch width and don’t have your tension set too tight; you will not cut the leather.

Tips & Warnings

• I've been sewing leather soft-sole shoes for years and I am constantly learning new and easier ways to work with leather on a standard-sewing machine. Check out my website for updated tips, great leather patterns, appliques designed just for leather, and more articles. http://www.makethemyourself.com.

[roimata9]

on 4/22/2009 HI there, I have been having problems with the tension on my machine, I am using leather needles and have just switched to Gutterman 100% polyester quilting thread, because the regular thread kept breaking. However, the top tension is now way too loose, even when I have it as tight as it will go. Do you have any suggestions for fixing this? I've tried adjusting the bobbin tension, but it just ends up with them both being too loose. Thanks

[digupstuff]

on 4/15/2009 I have tons of scrap leather (and I will probably be gathering more this weekend at the Native American Festival at Chehaw Park, YAY!) and never thought of using my sewing machine to sew them together! Thank you for this idea Misty!!! 5* <3 Dig :D XOXOX

[oceanviewlthrs]

on 3/14/2009 I AM GOING TO SEW PATHCHES ON LEATHER JACKETS AND VEST IS THIS POSSIBLE WITH A REGULAR SEWING MACHINE.

[PhotoQuilts1]

on 12/5/2008 I am starting to make purses/handbags and I keep braking needles and the thread keeps breaking...this is on a standard sewing machine...I am trink to sew through about 4 layers of fabric plus 2 layers of fusable thermal...can you give me any suggestions...should I try a leather needle or do I need a more heavy duty machine? Please Help! [e-mail]

[PhotoQuilts1]

on 12/5/2008 I am starting to make purses/handbags and I keep braking needles and the thread keeps breaking...this is on a standard sewing machine...I am trink to sew through about 4 layers of fabric plus 2 layers of fusable thermal...can you give me any suggestions...should I try a leather needle or do I need a more heavy duty machine? Please Help! [e-mail]