How to Correct Permanent Black Hair Color to Dark Ash Blonde at Home

Going from brunette to blonde is a three-step process.

Dying hair black with permanent color can be just as stressful for your tresses as bleaching it. Black dye penetrates and saturates hair more than any other color dye, which is why some people dislike the results and decide to go with a more subtle shade. But it also means that the color is especially difficult to remove from the hair shaft. Use an oxidative hair color remover made from hydrogen peroxide rather than bleach to lift the black dye. Bleach should never be applied over black dye because it will eat through the dye as well as the natural color and may ruin the shaft in the process. Color remover will reduce the amount of artificial color only, by shrinking color molecules so they can be washed away. With a little rehabilitation, you can then dye hair to the desired dark ash blonde.

Things You'll Need

• Comb
• Hair clasps
• Hair color remover kit (includes hydrogen peroxide powder and activator)
• Mixing bowl
• Applicator brush
• Plastic gloves
• Toner
• Developer
• Deep conditioner
• Plastic shower cap
• Ash blonde hair dye kit

Instructions

Color Removal

1. Section clean hair into at least four parts. Separate the hair into more sections if hair is coarse or thick. Hold the sections in place with hair clasps.

2. Mix the color lifter powder and activator together in a mixing bowl. Follow the mixing instructions provided with the kit for proper measurements and storage after use. Use the opposite end of the applicator brush for mixing the ingredients.

3. Apply the color-removing mix to the hair beginning with the sections at the bottom back of the head and moving up toward the crown and hairline. Wear plastic gloves and use the applicator brush in short sweeping motions to fully cover the hair shaft. Do not apply mixture to the scalp and only cover areas with permanent hair dye.

4. Cover the hair loosely with a plastic cap. Process color lifter for the amount of time indicated on the kit (approximately 20 minutes). You may speed the process by applying heat to the cap with a hair dryer, if the instructions say it is okay to do so. Once you've removed the artificial color, rinse thoroughly, shampoo and condition the hair.

5. Wait at least 24 hours after stripping color to allow hair time to rest between processes. Shampoo as normal and deep condition to help replenish moisture each day you wait.

Toning

1. Mix toner with developer in a bowl according to instructions on the products. Toner is a translucent color that neutralizes orange tones after lightening. It usually has a blue base or tint.

2. Section hair as instructed in Section 1. Apply toner beginning in the bottom back of hair. Because you are toning out the underlying red and orange pigments, apply toner only to the areas that display brassiness.

3. Wait for the toner to process according to product instructions and depending on how much brassiness needs to be removed. This can take 30 to 45 minutes or less. Rinse toner out and follow with a shampoo and deep conditioning treatment.

4. Mix the hair color and developer for the dark ash blonde in small amounts for the patch test. Apply the color to the inner part of the elbow. Protect the patch test area for 24 hours and look for signs of redness, itching or discomfort to determine if you are allergic. Do not use the dye if you experience an allergic reaction.

Dye Hair

1. Mix hair color and the developer in the mixing bowl according to instructions on the kit. Use gloves and section hair according to instructions above.

2. Apply hair color to sections working your way through hair quickly and carefully to avoid overprocessing.

3. Allow hair color to process for the amount of time specified on the instructions. Rinse hair thoroughly and apply a deep conditioner. Many kits include their own aftercare conditioner or you can use your own deep conditioner.

Tips & Warnings

• Purchase color remover and hair dye kits at a beauty supply store. The clerks there should be able to advise you on the appropriate color kit, toner and color lifter. Employees at regular drug stores usually lack that type of knowledge.

• You can purchase toner and its developer in a kit or independent of one another. Use cream formulations of toner and developer instead of liquid to help moisturize hair. Depending on your natural hair color, ask for the best color toner for you, as they range in brightness.

• If you naturally have blonde or very light hair, you may not need the toner after the color removal process. Toner is for hair that has a lot of brassy red and orange tones--usually brunette hair. Skip Section 2 if your hair is light and not warm-toned after black dye removal.

• The color lifter will remove the artificial black dye and leave your natural color intact.

• Your hair may turn green or other unusual shades if you swim in a pool or salt water after these processes.

• Adhere to time frames on the instruction manuals for all processing to avoid burning your scalp and damaging the hair.

• Previously chemically treated hair may be too unhealthy for these processes. If hair is extremely brittle and dry, it is probably too porous for the process and may not hold the new color for long.

References

• Love to Know: Removing Black Hair Dye
• Style Hair Magazine: Hair Color Removal Techniques for Removing Artificial Pigment
• Hair Coloring Guide: Choosing a Hair Color

Resources

• Loreal Technique: Color Zap Color Remover
• Youtube: Bleaching My Hair Blonde
• Style Hair Magazine: Hair Toner Toning Hair Tips and Techniques