How Are Hair Extensions Done?

Types of Hair

Hair extensions are generally either human hair or a synthetic material and are added to the hair for length, thickness and/or coverage. Synthetic hair has low heat resistance and therefore is sold pre-styled. Using a hot flat-iron or curling iron on synthetic hair will melt the fibers. Human hair is either chemically treated or virgin. Chemical treatment can change the texture (curly or straight) or the color of the hair. Virgin hair is typically more expensive and more revered because using chemicals on the hair may strip the cuticle and leave it dull or difficult to manage.

Another distinction in hair types is made according to whether or not the cuticles are aligned. Naturally, our hair grows with the cuticles lying in one direction. During transport or processing of hair extensions, the strands may get shuffled in all directions. "Cuticle hair" is hair that has been kept with each strand facing the same direction so that the cuticles are aligned. Non-cuticle hair is more prone to tangling as the strands come in contact with each other. Hair that is sold as "Remy" hair is typically virgin cuticle hair; however there is currently no legal definition for the term.

Hair also differs by region. You can find hair labeled Chinese, African, Russian, European, etc. Extension wearers can experiment with different hair types to find which types are the most suitable. People of Asian origin typically have hair in which the individual strands are of larger diameter than other races. People of African origin generally have highly textured hair with a flatter, ribbon-like cross-section.

Stylists usually recommend a consultation to determine which type of hair is the most suitable and to assess the client's hair and scalp. Then the stylist will set an appointment date and time and install the hair extensions in one or more of several methods. The stylist then may cut and style the hair into the desired look.

Fusion Method

In the fusion method, the stylist takes small stick of wax or adhesive material and uses it to attach the hair extensions to strands of the client's natural hair. Using more strands requires more time attaching and usually costs more money. The stylist then uses a special tool to heat the adhesive, bonding the strands together. This method is best when using hair extensions that are similar in texture to the client's hair.

Weaving Method

In the weaving method, the stylist braids the client's hair, usually close to the scalp. The stylist may choose from a variety of braiding patterns, including braiding the hair in a circle around the head or braiding the hair straight back and securing the ends. Then the stylist will either sew or bond wefts of hair weave to the braids. Sewing the track requires a special needle and thread, and takes longer than bonding the tracks. Bonding the tracks requires a hair bond adhesive (different from fusion adhesive) and is quicker to install, thus sometimes referred to as a "Quick-Weave."

Clip-In Method

The clip-in method is an extension type that does not require a professional to install. The hair is bought already sewn to small barrette-like hair clips, or you can buy clips and sew the wefts on yourself to the clips. The user just parts his or her hair and attaches small sections of hair extensions to the hair at the base of the scalp. This method is as easy as closing a barrette. The most difficult part of this method is deciding where you want to add hair for color, length or thickness. This method is not as ideal as weaving for users with thick hair because the user's hair is not secured down and the clips may look bulky.

References

• FBI.gov - Human Hairs: Racial Determination

Resources

• The Hair Extension Guide
• Wagman's Human Hair