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Summary: Princess seams serve as buzz darts for garments with inverted pleats. Learn to design princess seams on a dress with inverted pleats from a pro fashion designer in this free fashion illustration video.
Laurel Armstrong is in graduate school for fashion design and is knowledgeable about everything fashion: design, sketching, pattern drafting, draping, sewing construction, etc. Laurel...read more
"This variation of princess seams is for when you're doing pleats, not necessarily all pleats, but pleats that are inverted. Inverted pleats are one that you have your top layer, of the fabric, and then behind it, is the pleat. So, you have your pleats, they're sewn together, right there, and then you would have, I did it in a contrasting fabric because that just shows up better and gets the point across better. They're going to start, again, at the armpits and they're going to serve as your buzz darts also. Inverted pleats, since it's pleated, obviously, you have pleats in order to fit things to the body, as well as, take them away from the body, at the same time. We have it fitted at the top and then, at the point where each pleat starts, is where the princess seam stops but, remember, if you were going to do full length princess seams, the seaming would go straight down in the middle of where you have your inverted pleat, that's all based on where you want to put the pleat. Let's say we have our pleats way up here. We're going to start at the armpits and just go down to there and then your inversion, say you want this one be bigger. There you go."