When attaching snowboard bindings, first determine if the snowboarder rides regular or goofy with their feet. Make sure snowboard bindings aren't wider than the snowboard with help from the manager of a snowboard store in this free video on snowboarding gear and equipment.
And in this clip, we're going to go over how to attach snowboard bindings to your snowboard. Alright, guys, here we go. There's a left binding, and a right binding. One way to find out, normally the ladder straps are on the outside of your bindings, so if your left foot, these guys will be on the outside. It's very important to understand if you're regular or goofy. Determine if you're regular or goofy... left foot forward snowboarding--that's regular. Right foot forward... that's goofy. You'll figure out whether you're regular or goofy just by a few turns on the hill. You will be mounted center on the board, so that you can go in either direction, but once you establish if you're a regular or goofy, understand your left foot's forward for regular, your right foot's forward for goofy. You'll find the reference point located on the snowboard. You want to attach the binding by first putting it down, making sure the binding is not wider than the board. If the binding is wider than the board, odds are you need to get a wider board. Each click on the reference disc is three degrees. Find out your stance--whether you prefer eighteen degrees in the front, nine degrees in the front... it's labeled on the disc, and each tick is three degrees. So we're going to do eighteen degrees in the front... and it mounts at the reference mark on the board, just like so. You want to have the binding centered on the board, not too far off the nose not too far off the tail. Once that is set, you screw it down. Do not use a drill. Use a number three screwdriver. That way it'll help alleviate stripping or cross-threading any threads in the board. That's a big no-no, very hard to fix. Once that is mounted, then you do the rear. Find out, again, are they going to ride duck, maybe negative nine. Maybe they might be riding regular and positive nine. That's up to the client, and again... just as simple as three degrees each click... set it down... use your number three screwdriver... four screws here, four screws there. You might have an EST system that has two screws, you might have a three hole pattern, you only use three screws. Once they're screwed down, then you want to place the boot inside the binding. Once the boot is inside the binding, you want the boot, heel strap, to be centered right over the middle as it's clicked down. Normally you'll have a tool-less adjustment, or just a normal screwdriver... you can telescope the heel strap up and down. Cap straps... cap straps can go over the toe, or they can go old school on top of the toe. Again, you want that centered over the center of the boot for the best fitting. Then you might have to adjust the high back, to make the high back parallel to the heel side edge. And again, most bindings will have an adjustment on the side to where you can kink the high back. Basically makes your hill side turn a lot quicker, and you can recover from a sketchy landing a lot faster... quicker response on the heel side edge. Cap straps... keep your heel locked into the heel cup, keeping your heel from lifting, plus give you quick response for your toe side edge. Correct binding fit to boot--there's small, medium, large, extra large--make sure you have the right size binding for the right size boot. Don't try to intermix them, or get longer straps. The tray widths are different, and the length.