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Summary: Learn repelling techniques used in rock climbing in this free instructional outdoors video.
Justus Zimmerman has rock climbed all over the United States, from long, traditional routes in Yosemite to short, hard boulder problems in New Hampshire. During college he taught...read more
"Now, I'm going to show you briefly how to rappel. We've got our anchor set up, we've got our rope running through it, I'm tethered to the anchor so that while I'm setting it up and standing by the edge of the cliff, I can't fall over. So we've got it all locked up here. I'm going to take the same belay device we used for the belaying and now I'm going to use it for rappel. So the way you do that is you clip it to your belay loop, take your belay device which is now a rappel device, you're going to take two bites of the rope, which is doubled up, take two bites of rope, feed it through, one through each hole in the ATC, and then clip both of those to your locking carabiner. Screw the gate shut; you don't want that coming undone. Now that I'm locked, I've got my brake end again, just like belaying, and that's what I'm going to use to lower myself slowly over the edge of the cliff. So now that I'm here, I know I've got myself locked anchor-solid, now I can undue this tether and lower myself slowly down. Just like lowering when you're belaying, you want to keep yourself perpendicular to the rock face, and just slowly walk down. It doesn't take too much energy to hold myself here. Just enough so that I can control my descent."
Comments
becknologyrockc said
on 3/9/2009 So what happens if you need to let go of the rope for some reason? What happens if you get rope burn, or if you swat at a bee? You would fall because you have no back-up in place! It has happened loads of times because of people using this unsafe method of rappelling.
There is no reason to rappel without some sort of back-up in place. If you don't know how to do this, contact an AMGA certified guide to help you.
budsned said
on 6/2/2009 A few comments about safety on this video!The basics of what this young fellow has shown are ok but there are some glaring problems. First, his anchor system, although it looks good and rugged, is not self-equalizing. That is, if one of his three anchors should blow, the remaining two will not share the load equally - it all will go to one of them. There are knots that, if done properly, will self-adjust to share the load.Second, he's not using any rope pads to protect his rope from abrasion against the rock face. While this may not be too important on a smooth, gradually curving face like the one he's on, if the edge is sharper, it can quickly cut through your rope.Third, the positioning of his rope hand is not correct. The rope hand should be around by his buttocks. This keeps the rope out from under your feet while you are descending and gives you better control of your rapp...