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How to Use an Anchor While Rock Climbing

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Part of the video series: Outdoor Rock Climbing

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Summary: Learn how to use anchors in rock climbing in order to stay safe when you're out on the mountain in this free instructional outdoors video.

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Presenter

By Justus Zimmerman
eHow Presenter

Contact: www.justuszimmerman.com

Justus Zimmerman has rock climbed all over the United States, from long, traditional routes in Yosemite to short, hard boulder problems in New Hampshire. During college he taught...read more

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Video Transcript

"So I'm going to go over this really briefly. Up here we've got three bolts drilled and glued into the rock. They're all pretty solid -- I've checked them out, the rock around them is good, which is an important consideration when looking at how solid your anchor's going to be. Then what I've done to make sure that no one, one of them is taking the entire burden of the rope, is I've set up a cordellete tied in three ways, so each bolt is sharing the weight each one only has a third of the strain on it. That's important. When you're building anchors, you always want to have everything backed up. You don't want to be on any one piece. So what I've used to extend these is some quick draws to make it come down even further so it gets over the lip of the rock and that there's no rope running over the rock. And then for the base of the anchor I put two beaners on it, one locking one not locking. You always want to have backups here as well, so we've got two beaners in case one breaks. Shouldn't happen, but you always want to be backed up. And the rope goes through both, and then you throw it down. Before you throw it down, you want to yell down to the ground, "Rope," just so that people know to watch out and not get hit by the rope."

eHow Article: How to Use an Anchor While Rock Climbing