How to Do a Dyno

Introduction

Getting stuck on the crux of a climb? Skip the whole thing with a dyno! Whether you're looking to bypass a few moves on a route or you just don't have the reach for the next hold, the dyno is a great weapon to have in your climbing arsenal. The idea is to spring off the rock with both hands and feet to make a one-chance grab for a higher hold. It requires a little strength and a lot of practice but it could help you finish a route that seems impossible.

By: Soren

Length: 0:10

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Instructions

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Difficulty: Moderately Challenging

Tips & Warnings:

Keep your eyes on the hold you're aiming for at all times. If you take your eyes off it, you could miss the grab or smash your hand into the bottom of the hold.
When doing a dyno, you may find that your feet, once fully extended, never have to leave the rock. That's great if you can make the reach while still keeping some connection to the wall it's a nice treat.
If the hold you are jumping for is rough or jagged, it's possible to tear your finger pads grabbing for it. Always make sure that the hold is good before trying a dyno to it.
Always have someone on the ground spotting you when trying a dyno, and put down a crash pad.
All climbing is dangerous. If you climb more than nine feet up, you should be top-roped.

Step1

Find a good taking off point. Jumping up a rock face you're already attached to is difficult. Make it easier on yourself by finding secure holds for each hand, and high foot placement that isn't slick.

Step2

Be sure that the hold you are gunning for is both strong enough to support you and shaped in a way that's easy to grab. Dynos are extremely hard to accomplish when you are jumping for a bad hold.

Step3

Once you've found a good taking off point, stoop as low in the position as your body will go. This means fully extending your arms and dropping your butt below your feet. Think of it as a spring coiling, ready to explode.

Step4

Take a few practice lunges without leaving the rock just to get the feel of it, and to be sure your foot holds are secure.

Step5

When you're ready, push off with your hands and extend your legs fully until they can push off the rock as well; your hands will initiate the thrust, and your legs will give the extra boost you need.

Step6

Now that you're completely separate from the rock, reach for the new hold with your closest hand. Your dominant hand is the obvious choice because it's stronger, but depending on where you're jumping to, sometimes it makes more sense to reach with the other. If possible, try to grab the hold with both hands at once.

Step7

Grab it tightly because the force of your body coming down will try to tear you away. If you can hold on, great! You've done a dyno, now put your feet back on the rock and continue climbing.

Photo/Video Credit

Jeff Blum

Comments

grouch said

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on 12/7/2007 Wow. I am impressed. Wonderful moves in the video and I liked the slow motion shot that allows you to see what is going on at every stage start to finish.

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