How to Do a Dyno

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From Quick Guide: Off-Beat Physical Activities

Summary: Getting stuck on the crux of a climb? Skip the whole thing with a dyno! Whether you're looking to bypass a few moves on a route or you just don't have the reach for the next hold, the dyno is a great weapon to have in your climbing arsenal. The idea is to spring off the rock with both hands and feet to make a one-chance grab for a higher hold. It requires a little strength and a lot of practice but it could help you finish a route that seems impossible.

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By Soren
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Soren went through extensive tumbling and stunt training through the Occidental College theatrical department before graduating in 2004. While at college, he also gained a vast...read more

Difficulty: Moderately Challenging
Instructions
  1. Step 1

    Find a good taking off point. Jumping up a rock face you're already attached to is difficult. Make it easier on yourself by finding secure holds for each hand, and high foot placement that isn't slick.

  2. Step 2

    Be sure that the hold you are gunning for is both strong enough to support you and shaped in a way that's easy to grab. Dynos are extremely hard to accomplish when you are jumping for a bad hold.

  3. Step 3

    Once you've found a good taking off point, stoop as low in the position as your body will go. This means fully extending your arms and dropping your butt below your feet. Think of it as a spring coiling, ready to explode.

  4. Step 4

    Take a few practice lunges without leaving the rock just to get the feel of it, and to be sure your foot holds are secure.

  5. Step 5

    When you're ready, push off with your hands and extend your legs fully until they can push off the rock as well; your hands will initiate the thrust, and your legs will give the extra boost you need.

  6. Step 6

    Now that you're completely separate from the rock, reach for the new hold with your closest hand. Your dominant hand is the obvious choice because it's stronger, but depending on where you're jumping to, sometimes it makes more sense to reach with the other. If possible, try to grab the hold with both hands at once.

  7. Step 7

    Grab it tightly because the force of your body coming down will try to tear you away. If you can hold on, great! You've done a dyno, now put your feet back on the rock and continue climbing.

Comments  

grouch said

Flag This Comment

on 12/7/2007 Wow. I am impressed. Wonderful moves in the video and I liked the slow motion shot that allows you to see what is going on at every stage start to finish.

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eHow Article: How to Do a Dyno

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