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Step 1
Check the brake fluid if the brake light is on (see "How to Check Brake Fluid" in the Related eHows).
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Step 2
Understand that a high-pitched scraping or squealing noise that goes away when you step on the brake tells you that the brake pads are worn - but only with brake pads that have wear sensors attached.
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Step 3
Note that a grinding, metal-against-metal sound when braking indicates that it's too late: Your brake pads or shoes are completely worn away, and you are now ruining the rotors or drums. You should have gotten the brakes checked earlier!
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Step 4
Feel the brake pedal. If it is soft or mushy or gets harder and higher when you pump it, you might need to bleed the brakes (which gets air bubbles out of the brake lines).
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Step 5
Note that if the brake pedal slowly sinks to the floor when you step on it (or intermittently), you might be in need of a new brake master cylinder.
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Step 6
Drive the car at low speed, braking as needed. If the brakes squeal, you might need new brake pads, or the brake rotors might need to be resurfaced or machined.
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Step 7
Understand that if the car pulls to one side when braking, you might have insufficient hydraulic pressure in one part of the brake system, or one brake might be sticking. Front-end problems can also cause this symptom.
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Step 8
Consider your rotors if you feel a pulsation when stepping on the brake pedal, particularly when braking at higher speeds. This symptom may indicate warped brake rotors. The rotors will need to be either machined or replaced.
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Step 9
Remember that smoking brakes, usually accompanied by a very bad smell, indicate a stuck brake caliper or wheel cylinder. This symptom may also be caused by driving with the hand brake on or by a stuck hand-brake cable.
Comments
spartanic said
on 4/30/2009 This brake troubleshooting guide is a must read as well: http://www.garage411.com/Brakes
91preludesi said
on 9/6/2008 To handoi, and everyone. If you feel a shaking in the steering wheel, then the problem is with your front brakes, (your rotors are warped). They need to be replaced. Also, these days turning (machining) rotors is usually not the best way to go. A lot of shops around here where I work charge about $25 plus to turn rotors, however, no one checks to see what a new set will cost. Especially on a Civic, new rotors are cheap, and you are not trying to make an old part like new again. I have seen rotors as low as $18. Granted, double that for each side and you're looking at $36, but isn't a little over $10 more worth it to get new parts that have a warranty?
rodney1 said
on 3/10/2008 I JUST BOUGHT A CAR THE PERSON I BOUGHT THE CAR FROM SAID THAT THEY JUST CHANGED THE FRONT BRAKES ON THE CAR. I DROVE THE CAR AROUND FOR AWHILE THEN I STARTED HEARING SQUEAKING, AND GRINDING FROM THE FRONT OF THE CAR IS THERE A CHANCE THAT THEY PUT SOMETHING IN WRONG OR PUT SOMETHING IN BACKWARDS?
handoi said
on 2/25/2008 I have a honda civic, when I brake the steering wheel shakes. Just got the rear rotors machined (told the front was still ok) but it still didn't fix the problem. Also told the rear right wheel bearing needed changing, could this cause the shakes or something else?
handoi said
on 2/25/2008 I have a honda civic, when I brake the steering wheel shakes. Just got the rear rotors machined (told the front was still ok) but it still didn't fix the problem. Also told the rear right wheel bearing needed changing, could this cause the shakes or something else?