How to String a Violin
Strings age and wear out whether they're metal or gut. Preventive medicine is the prescription. Do a "transplant" before they give out during a performance.
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Things You'll Need
- Block Of Rosins
- Pitch Pipes For Violin
- Set Of Violin Strings
- Violin Bows
- Violin Bridges
- Violin Cases
- Violins
- Chairs
Instructions
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1
Loosen all four strings gradually. Remove each string from the hole in the doweling that penetrates the scroll.
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2
Retrieve the bridge that supported the strings. Place it in the violin case for later use.
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3
Cut the violin strings from the "tail-piece" keyholes. Mark these holes to remember which string is mounted where.
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4
Tie a small knot at the base end of each string to fit below the string slot, forming an anchor point when tension is applied.
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5
Thread the clean end of each new string through the underside of the hole slots in the tailpiece. Be sure the string is securely set and will not slip when tension is increased.
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6
Thread the opposite end of each violin string through the holes in the proper doweling rod so that additional turns will lie on top of the end of that string and prevent it from slipping. Tension is not to be applied yet.
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7
Set the strings on top of the bridge indentations with the bridge foot over the tone post.
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8
Gradually tighten the strings; tighten them all in rotation, a little at a time.
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9
Use a four-note pitch pipe or a piano to begin the pitch matching and the tuning process.
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10
Be aware that the tuning will gradually "flatten" due to the normal stretching of new strings. Stretching should be complete in one week.
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1
Tips & Warnings
Check the condition of the bridge. If damaged or cracked, replace it with a new one.
Avoid the total mounting or removal of one string at a time. Tension problems can cause a potential "warp" in the instrument.
Mark the exact point where the bridge was mounted so replacement is exact. There is a supporting "tone post" underneath the base of this mount point that transmits the string vibrations to the entire instrument. This tone post location can be seen by peeking through the "f" holes in the top of the instrument.
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Comments
View all 17 Comments-
Bob88986
Jan 26, 2007
Well, What can I say ... Get better advice. Replace the strings one at a time to avoid having to reset the sound-post. Don't cut the strings off, they will come out of the tail-piece without being cut. Don't knot the new strings - they'll come either with a ball or loop - get the correct kind for your violin. The balls can be removed from ball end strings to make them loop-end strings. Place the end of the string in the peg first, then wind as described above, then remove any twist from the string before placing in the tail-piece. Don't mess around, guessing where the bridge should go. Generally, it will be clear from the marks on the violin (The correct location of the bridge feet will not be varnished, but if unsure - it should be placed exactly centered between the notches in the f-holes, not above the sound-post as described! Also, the bridge and nut should be lubricated with a pencil whenever new strings are installed. If your not sure what your doing, get someone to show you the first time! -
Bob88986
Jan 26, 2007
Well, What can I say ... Get better advice. Replace the strings one at a time to avoid having to reset the sound-post. Don't cut the strings off, they will come out of the tail-piece without being cut. Don't knot the new strings - they'll come either with a ball or loop - get the correct kind for your violin. The balls can be removed from ball end strings to make them loop-end strings. Place the end of the string in the peg first, then wind as described above, then remove any twist from the string before placing in the tail-piece. Don't mess around, guessing where the bridge should go. Generally, it will be clear from the marks on the violin (The correct location of the bridge feet will not be varnished, but if unsure - it should be placed exactly centered between the notches in the f-holes, not above the sound-post as described! Also, the bridge and nut should be lubricated with a pencil whenever new strings are installed. If your not sure what your doing, get someone to show you the first time!
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MOBRELLA
Dec 16, 2006
Yikes, this is horrible advice. Taking off all 4 strings at once is completely contrary to every good practice. This set of instruction should be removed from your website entirely. Sound post could fall with this method and only a professional can "set" the bridge or the soundpost. Why would one want to "mark" a fine violin? There is no reason to "cut" strings from the tailpiece...when tension is loosened the string can be gently removed.
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MOBRELLA
Dec 16, 2006
Yikes, this is horrible advice. Taking off all 4 strings at once is completely contrary to every good practice. This set of instruction should be removed from your website entirely. Sound post could fall with this method and only a professional can "set" the bridge or the soundpost. Why would one want to "mark" a fine violin? There is no reason to "cut" strings from the tailpiece...when tension is loosened the string can be gently removed.
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Jun 30, 2006
I would suggest changing one string at a time. Unless you need to replace your bridge, it is more convenient, as well as easier on the instrument if you don't move the bridge!
