Accord Tub & Shower Installation and Instructions

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The Accord bathtub and three-piece shower surround kit by Sterling is designed for fast and simple installation without the use of any caulking. It is made of Vikrell, which is a durable and lightweight material, allowing do-it-yourselfers to easily move the parts into the job site. The Accord is designed to fit in a 60-inch alcove with exposed studs. When the plumbing is roughed in it's time to begin the installation.

Things You'll Need

  • Drain-waste-overflow kit for tub
  • Plumber's putty
  • Screwdriver
  • Channel-type pliers
  • Level
  • Wood shims
  • Jigsaw
  • Hammer
  • Roofing nails
  • Place the included fabric pad into the center of the floor in the alcove. This will prevent minor squeaking caused by ffriction against the subfloor.

  • Attach a drain and overflow kit to the tub. These are inexpensive and universally sized. Be sure the rubber gaskets are in the correct position between the overflow pipes and the holes in the tub.

  • Place a ring of plumber's putty around the drain outlet hole in the floor of the tub.

  • Thread the drain strainer from the drain-waste-overflow kit into the drain pipe elbow beneath the tub and hand tighten it only.

  • Attach the overflow coverplate that is included with the drain-waste-overflow kit using the screws provided. Tighten the screws until the rubber gasket is tight between the outside of the tub and the overflow pipe.

  • Finish tightening the floor drain strainer until the plumber's putty squeezes out. Insert the handles to a pair of pliers into the drain to provide leverage. Remove any excess plumber's putty.

  • Flip the tub onto its side and gently push the attached apron braces into position with your hand. This provides a rigid surface on the bottom edge of your tub.

  • Lift the tub into place inside the alcove and on top of the fabric pad, taking care not to bunch up the pad.

  • Check that the tub is level across the front edge and sides using a 3-foot level. If the tub is out of level, shim it with wood or metal shims.

  • Clean the edges of the flange and tab pockets with a rag, making sure that no debris has fallen into the tab pockets.

  • Install the back wall section by raising it into position and lowering the tabs into the tab pockets, locking it into place. You'll know it is in the proper position if you observe no gap between the bottom of the panel and the tub.

  • Install one end wall by aligning the pin into the pivot joint on the back wall section. Rotate the wall downward into position. The wall retention clips will lock into place.

  • Measure and cut holes for the mixing valve and spout in the other side wall by using a jigsaw.

  • Remove the temporary stub-out for tub and install second end wall in the same way as the first.

  • Add wood shims between studs and top edge of flange if they are not sitting tightly together.

  • Hammer roofing nails or screw non-tapered flat-head screws into the flange to attach the unit to the studs. Start at the bottom of one side wall flange and work upward. Do the same on the other side wall. Then fasten the top of the back wall at every stud. Spread fasteners about 16 inches apart.

Tips & Warnings

  • Place a drop cloth inside the tub while installing side panels to avoid damaging the tub finish. If the tub isn't level you may also choose to set it into a mortar base instead of using the fabric pad.
  • No caulk is required. Do not caulk the junction between the side panels and the tub.

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References

  • Photo Credit 32 year old bathroom image by Russell Espinoza from Fotolia.com
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