How to Climb a Slab in Rock Climbing

Slab climbing, although not currently chic, is a necessary skill and a rewarding type of climbing in the right area. It's also one of the few forms of climbing that's all about technique.

Difficulty: Easy

Instructions

Position your body

1. The classic body position on a slab climb puts your rear out and away from the rock. This is so you can get good downward pressure on the balls of your feet. If you "hug" the rock, your feet will skate right off.

2. Your hands are typically out in front of you with your elbows dropped, fingers setting on the little dime edges. Using these dime edges with your fingers is important so you can move your feet.

Smear your feet

3. A "smear" is a foot position where you're on the balls of your feet. Point your toes into the rock and let your heels drop, this will smear the ball of your foot onto the rock. Your calves should burn after a long time of this foot position.

4. Place the ball of your foot into the miniscule depressions in the rock. Spotting these tiny undulations in the rock surface will become an art, and a key to making progress.

5. Smearing on edges can also provide increased purchase. The edges you smear on may be as thin as the edge of a dime, but even this will help a great deal.

Tips & Warnings

• Climbing difficult slab routes can be very sequential (and run out). It helps to plan 4-6 moves at a time.
• Sometimes it's difficult to see the bolts that you are climbing to on a slab route. It can help if you put your face against the rock and look at the "horizon" for clues where the bolts might be.
• Take a good long look at the guidebook before you set out on slab routes as they tend to meander with the features of the rock.

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on 11/22/2005 Temperature effects both the stickiness and stiffness of climbing rubber. A climb that might be a cakewalk on a crisp autumn day might be a sketchy nightmare on a hot sunny summer day.