How to Modify Jean Jacket Patterns
To customize or modify a pattern, a sewer needs to make a new sketch of the modification, make a duplicate pattern of the existing style, and then use the new pattern's specifications to modify the new style. Making a jean jacket incorporates distinct double needle topstitching, pocket flaps, front and back yokes as well as metal shanks for the button closure. These factors must be taken into account during pattern modification.
Instructions
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Trace a duplicate copy of your jean jacket pattern on your pattern paper by outlining each part of the pattern. Use your ruler to define straight seams and your French curve ruler to shape curved seams such as the armhole. It is best to not cut out your duplicate pattern before you modify it.
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Mark all of the sewing notches with a pencil. Do not yet notch the pattern, as the notches will change when you modify the pattern. "Notching" means cut into the pattern to make a visible marking with a notcher.
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Mark the duplicate patterns. Refer to the cutting instructions during modification.
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Mark the duplicate pattern with the proper position of the front button spacing as well as the pocket flaps. This is very important for modifying the button placement and adding buttonholes when you construct the jacket.
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Draw the modified seams directly onto the duplicate patterns according to your design. Keep in mind that if you are splitting existing patterns or adding inserts, you will have to add seam allowances. Not adding allowances will result in an uncomfortable fit and distorted construction.
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Mark the duplicate patterns with the modified notches, to ensure that the fabric pieces will align properly during construction. Don't forget any modified cutting instructions as well, such as "cut two front yokes" or "cut split back panel."
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Mark your pattern with any new placements for the double needle top stitching as well as any changes to the button placement. Mark the modified buttonhole placements with a marker as well, to note where you will cut buttonholes during construction. This is very important to ensure the modified jean jacket pattern will result in an authentic-looking denim jacket when it is finished.
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