How to Paint a Sniper Rifle or Hunting Rifle Camouflage

Painting a sniper or hunting rifle camouflage can be an intimidating task. Most people are hesitant to spray paint a shiny new rifle. If done correctly it will leave you with a functional, non reflective finish. Painting will cover nicks and scratches on older rifles and prevents rust and corrosion.
When many people think of camouflage the typical U.S. Army woodland pattern comes to mind, or perhaps a newer Realtree or Digital camo pattern. Each camouflage pattern has a place it is best suited for. We are going to use a very simple and practical camouflage pattern that will allow the rifle to blend into almost any natural terrain or vegetation.
This simple technique can be used to camouflage other outdoor gear too.

Difficulty: Moderate

Instructions

Things You'll Need:

• Non-reflective spray paint, I used Krylon Camouflage Spray Paint. Khaki-4291, Brown-4292, and Olive-4293
• Spray Paint Primer, the same brand as the paint you use, I used Krylon All-Purpose Grey-51318
• Black electrical tape
• 1 Foam ear plug
• Cotton balls
• Degreaser or Denatured Alcohol
• Lint-free cloth or rag
• Scissors or a sharp knife to cut the electrical tape
• Latex gloves
• Old Newspaper or plastic drop cloth
• Jute (it's stringy material ghillie suits are made out of) or something similar

1. Before you can paint a rifle you need to prepare an area to paint in. Find a well ventilated area with good lighting and lay down some newspaper or drop cloth. Make sure to tape it down or secure it so it stays put. I taped mine to a table top.

2. 
    
   You will need Butler Creek flip-open scope caps.

   Make sure your rifle scope has Butler Creek or similar flip-open covers on both ends. If you don't already have a Harris style bipod I would get one and paint it at the same time as the rifle.

3. 
    
   Bolt removed.

   Now you are ready to prep the rifle. First check to make sure your rifle is NOT loaded. Carefully remove the bolt and set it aside so it will not get paint on it.

4. 
    
   Scope lenses protected.

   Take some cotton balls if you have them or paper towels and fill the areas under the flip-open scope caps (to protect the lenses of the scope) and close both covers.

5. Carefully clean your rifle and scope with a lint free cloth using degreaser or denatured alcohol to remove the gun oil and other residue so that the paint will stick. The paint should stick to a synthetic stock really well as long as it is clean. If you have a smooth wood stock lightly go over the surface with really fine sandpaper or steel wool. This will help the paint stick to the wood better and last longer. If you have any rust spots on the metal clean those up as well. You shouldn't have to sand or otherwise scuff the metal surfaces on the rifle or scope. The paint will stick to it as long as it is clean. Take your time and do a good job prepping the rifle. Be sure to wash your hands well or wear the latex gloves so you don't get oil or dirt back on the rifle after you clean it by touching it.

6. 
    
   Cover important scope setting numbers with tape.

   Cut strips of tape and cover the lettering or numbers on the scope that you don't want painted. I used electrical tape because it is much easier to remove from the metal after painting. You can use masking or painters tape if you like. I used white electrical tape so it would show up in the pictures better.

7. 
    
   Paper towel rolled up and inserted in place of bolt.

   Use cotton balls or something similar to fill the rifle's chamber. Roll up a piece of paper towel and insert it where the bolt goes to prevent paint from getting on that area. The idea here is to only paint the outside areas of the rifle. You don't want paint causing the bolt to stick, etc.

8. 
    
   Foamie ear plug in end of barrel.

   When you are satisfied that you have all the scope settings covered with tape including the chamber and bolt area, put a foam ear plug in the hole at the end of the barrel. This will keep paint from getting in the barrel.

9. 
    

   Once you are completely finished prepping the rifle, lay it down on the newspaper or drop cloth covered table and step back to admire your work.. If you are painting a bipod or any other gear prep it in the same way.

10. It is now time to spray the rifle with Grey Primer. Spray VERY light coats on the rifle until it is completely covered. READ the directions on the spray paint can and do it just like it says. Be sure to let one side dry before turning the rifle over. Be sure to lightly coat all exposed parts including the end of the barrel and the rifle butt. It may be necessary to prop the rifle up on blocks or something to get every angle. Take your time and be very careful not to spray on too much. Try to avoid runs. If you accidentally get a run, don't panic. Calmly tear off a piece of tape and gently press the sticky side of the tape against the run and pull it off to remove excess paint. The excess paint (the run) will stick to the tape and it should dry smoothly.
    Spray the bipod or any other gear you are painting with primer too, then let everything dry.

11. After the primer is dry, make sure your hands are really clean or wear latex type gloves, and pick up the rifle. Carefully inspect the primer to make sure you didn't miss any spots. If you missed any areas repeat STEP 10.

12. **You are finally ready to start painting the rifle. Think about the places you will be using the rifle. Think about the colors of the terrain and vegetation where you plan to be shooting from. Since black isn't a naturally occuring color in nature we will not be using any black paint. I know what you are thinking, "Night time is black..." Well night time is only black because there is no light. Trust me on this one, I asked the same questions at sniper school.**

13. When the primer dries completely, paint the rifle with the lightest color of spray paint first Krylon Kakhi-4290. Read the directions on the back of the can. Use very light coats. If you get a run then remove it with tape. Make sure you don't miss any spots and then let it dry. Don't forget to paint the bipod or other gear you want painted. While it is drying move on to STEP 14.

14. Get out some Jute, maybe 20 strands, it doesn't have to be exact. Spread it out as flat as possible on the table. Once you get it fairly flat, take a piece of tape and tape both ends so that when you pick it up the strands stay slightly spread out and flat. (I'll add some pictures ASAP!) The idea will be to drape the Jute over the rifle and spray the paint over it, using the Jute for a sort of stencil.

15. After you get a couple flat sections of the Jute taped together you are ready to spray the first coat of paint. You need a section of flattened, taped together Jute for each color.

16. Now it is time to apply the camouflage. Don't be afraid of messing it up. Practice on something else first, like your friends rifle, if it helps. Make sure the base coat of Krylon Kakhi-4290 is dry. Read the directions on the back of the spray paint can and follow them. Be very careful and spray very light coats. Use the Jute as a stencil. Start with the lightest color again, Krylon Olive-4293. Make sure the lines go up and down, like grass only wavier. Don't forget to do the end of the barrel, the ends of the scope caps and the rifle butt. Don't forget to paint the bipod or other gear you want painted.

17. After you have enough Krylon Olive-4293 applied, move on to the next darker color, Krylon Brown-4292. Start with a clean Jute stencil.
    
    **Use the dark color sparingly! Think about the vegetation and terrain you will be shooting in. Dark colors tend to blend together at a distance and are easier to see, which is a bad thing. It is easy to add more Brown later if needed.**

18. Once the paint is completely dry remove the tape, cotton balls and paper towels that were masking parts from overspray. Take the ear plug out of the end of the barrel and put the bolt back in. Even though you will want to handle the rifle, put it away and let the paint cure.
    
    I'll get some pictures up ASAP. Happy Hunting!

Tips & Warnings

• Depending on the spray paint type or manufacturer you may or may not need to use primer. The Krylon spray paint that I used did not require primer, but I used primer anyway. Primer will cover and seal imperfections such as nicks on a wood stock. It will also cause the paint to finish better.
• This is important. When you shoot the rifle it will usually be held horizontally. From the prone position, even from sitting, kneeling or standing positions. In nature the lines go vertically (up and down), plants grow upward, grass grows upward, trees grow upward. So when you lay the rifle down to paint it, make sure you position the jute so the lines will run up and down (vertically) on the rifle, NOT length wise.
• Use the dark color sparingly! Think about the vegetation and terrain you will be shooting in. Dark colors tend to blend together at a distance and are easier to see, which is a bad thing. It is easy to add more Brown later if needed.
• Take an extra second before you begin to make sure your rifle is completely unloaded.
• Take proper precautions working with spray paint.
• Take proper precautions working with degreaser or denatured alcohol.

Resources

• Krylon Camouflage Paint
• Butler Creek flip-open scope caps
• Harris Bipods
• Jute Thread

[jdement12b]

on 11/10/2009 Thanks for the highspeed low drag comment sj2108. For the record, I'm the other guy in the pic, with gloves, on the right. The rifle that we painted was uncovered to shoot the picture, otherwise it would have been pointless for this article, obviously. The optic on the rifle has non reflective coated lenses, and it stays covered with the flip open cap until the team is in position... Yes the sling wouldn't have been my first choice either, then again I wouldn't have used woodland camo as a base for ghillie construction. This kid had just started his ghillie construction; his was incomplete, as most are early on in the course. I never said this was a graded stalking exercise nor is this article about sniper school / stalking / ghillie suit construction. It is about painting a rifle camouflage...

[sj62108]

on 11/10/2009 From what I can see from that super, duper highspeed pic at the top...there is no way that you passed stalking...no gloves...not even an attempt to try and camoflauge your hands, or the bright sling just kinda hangin' out there...no filter of any kind on the objective lens...no jute what so ever on the BDU right shooting arm....nice...

[mikeg21v]

on 10/7/2009 Well, I don't own a sniper rifle, but nicely written article! Thanks. 5* and rec

[mizzshady]

on 9/24/2009 Wow thank God I wont ever have to worry about that. The closest I come is mafia wars. lol You know your facts well. This was a good article. 5*

[cherylscott]

on 7/18/2009 Though I do not think I will be shooting a sniper rifle anytime soon in this lifetime, this is a fabulous article very detailed.