How to Build a Corner Computer Desk

Building a corner desk on which to place your computer is not as complicated as it sounds, if you keep in mind one basic little fact--that is, most all corners are square, so in essence all that is necessary is to carefully construct a square desk and then modify the shape of the tabletop and the location of the legs to create a functional corner desk. Follow these guidelines for a simple desk that can slide into the corner of your office and serve as a workstation for a computer or similar electronic device.

Difficulty: Challenging

Instructions

Things You'll Need:

• Circular saw
• Work bench
• Electric drill
• Table saw (or you can purchase wooden table legs)
• Scroll saw
• Flathead wood screws ( 2-inch/10-gauge, 1 1/4-inch/10-gauge)
• Pan head wood screws (1 1/4-inch/10-gauge)
• Orbital sander
• Sandpaper
• Pencil
• Straightedge
• String
• Wood finish
• Wood putty

How to Build a Corner Computer Desk

1. Decide on the overall dimensions of your table and then build a square frame for your desk from a clear softwood stock of 1-by-4 lumber that is of high quality (no knots). For this table the height will be 32 inches and the tabletop will be 36 by 36 inches. However, to make this size tabletop work, the frame will have to be a bit smaller at 24 by 24 inches. Begin building the table frame by cutting two pieces of 1-by-4 stock at 24 inches and two pieces at 22 1/2 inches. Make sure each end is cut squarely with a carpenter's square and a circular saw.

2. Put the table frame together using three flathead wood screws (2-inch, 10-gauge) at each corner. Sand each piece until it is smooth. Be sure to use a pilot hole and countersink before setting the wood screws that connect the table together.

3. Cut two more pieces at 22 1/2 inches. Since they will not show, they can be of lesser quality. These will be your crosspieces, and each one will be attached between the wooden sidepieces of the frame that you just constructed in Step 2. Make sure each piece is located at least 3 inches in from the outside edge. Again, use three 2-inch flathead wood screws to attach each end of the crosspiece to the frame of the tabletop. Again, you will need to begin with pilot holes and a countersink. Attach each board face up so that the flat surface of the board is even with the top of the wooden frame.

4. Make or purchase four table legs that are 31 inches high and approximately 2 inches square. You can make a rustic set of legs on a table saw by cutting some wood stock to a 2-by-2-inch thickness. From this stock you can cut four pieces to a 31-inch length. If you have a wood lathe, you can use that tool to "turn" each leg.

5. Thoroughly sand each leg before installation.

6. Attach the four legs to the frame. Make sure the top of the legs are flush with the top of the frame. Attach the four legs by inserting more flathead wood screws (2-inch, 10-gauge) from the outside surface of the table frame. Use six to eight screws per leg, and place an equal number on each outside surface for each leg. Don't forget to use your counter sink and a pilot hole.

7. Cut three pieces of 1-by-4 at 22 1/2 inches. These pieces will be your leg braces and the support for your shelf.

8. Install the three pieces at a height of 18 inches. Put the sidepieces in first. They are attached directly to the inside of the table legs, and they will run from the front of the legs to the back legs. These can be attached with more of the 2-inch wood screws. Pilot holes and a countersink are necessary. Next, place the back piece, which will be located at the very rear of the back legs. This piece should be attached in the same manner to the very rear of the back legs at exactly the same height as the two side braces.

9. Mark the outline of the tabletop on a sheet of smooth 3/4-inch plywood that is at least 40 inches square. First, draw a square box that is 36 inches long on the surface of the plywood, and then find the center point of the square box. The best way to do this is to use a square corner as a starting point and make two marks on each side at 36 inches. Connect the two marks with a straight line and divide the distance (along the connecting line), and now you have the center point. Use this center point to draw an arc (a pencil and a piece of string should work fine) that goes from one pencil mark to the other. Now you have the shape of your tabletop.

10. Cut the tabletop with a scroll saw and sand the piece thoroughly.

11. Make a mark to establish the back line, where the tabletop meets the table frame. After you cut the top, you will have only one (square) corner left. From this corner extend a line 6 inches down each side and connect the two lines. This is where the tabletop meets the table frame.

12. Put some carpenters glue on top of the crosspieces, the four legs and the frame. Turn the table frame upside down and set it on the bottom of the table so the mark (Step 11) lines up with the frame. Center the frame on this line and then insert some pan head wood screws (1 1/4-inch/10-gauge) through the two crosspieces. You will need 8 to 10 screws for each crosspiece. Only pilot holes are needed, but be very careful with the depth so the drill bit does not penetrate the surface.

13. Cut and fit a plywood shelf on top of the cross braces that you applied in Step 8 and then add 3/4-inch-wide pieces of veneer to the edge of the plywood (this includes the tabletop). The strips can be applied with glue and small brads.

14. Fill all screw heads with wood putty and then add a finish.

Tips & Warnings

• The curved shape of the tabletop can be modified in shape and size. The height of the leg braces and shelves can be changed. A second layer of shelves can be added.
• The shelves should only be 8 to 14 inches wide.