How to Build a Box for a Hot Tub


Hot tubs are lovely editions for any space, whether you want them outside on a deck, as a showcase in a sun room or tucked away in a little nook downstairs. Either way, a hot tub isn't complete unless it is surrounded by its very own box.
This can't just be any old box, it must be sturdy, and it also must be extremely durable, since most likely the box will be coming into heavy contact with water. Here is a simple yet functional hot tub box that can be made with common tools.

Things You'll Need

  • Four 4-by-4s for the corners, treated Eight 2-by-4s, treated ½-inch plywood sheet, or either redwood or cedar siding Box of 2½-inch self-threading deck screws Crcular saw Screw gun Belt sander with 100-grit belt Tape measure Wood glue Silicone caulk
  • Measure the dimensions of the hot tub. This will give you the basics for your box measurements. You need to know the height, the width and the length of the hot tub. Write down this information.

  • Cut your four 4-by-4s. They should be cut to the height of your hot tub plus 1½ inches. This will allow you to start the box.

  • Cut your 2-by-4s. Cut them to the length and width of your hot tub plus 1 inch. This will allow you to fully enclose your hot tub once you start building.

  • Glue and screw the 2-by-4s onto the 4-by-4 corners. You will be making a giant frame for the tub here, so make sure the 2-by-4s are flush with the top of the corners. Each side will get two 2-by-4s. One should be at the bottom, and one should be at the top of each 4-by-4 corner. Use at least two screws on each end, and plenty of wood glue for added stability.

  • Make the bottom of the hot tub box. Flip over the frame and trace out a sheet of plywood for the bottom. Using your circular saw, cut out the bottom plywood piece.

  • Glue and screw the plywood to the bottom of the frame. It should fit exactly, and you should use plenty of glue as well as a screw at least every 12 inches. Allow everything to set thoroughly before you move on. This can take 10 minutes to two hours.

  • Smooth off the edges. Using your belt sander, go around the entire bottom and make sure everything is sanded flush.

  • Make a layer of wood at the bottom of the box. Flip the box back over, and then take four or five pieces of the scrap 2-by-4s that you have cut, and place them at the bottom of the box. In reality, a 2-by-4 is actually a 1½-by-3½, so place those scraps of wood staggered evenly on the bottom. Glue them down.

  • Go around the entire top of the box and put down a thick bead of silicone caulk. Don't worry about how it looks for now. It may be look sloppy.

  • Place your tub inside the box. You will see that it will rest firmly on the blocks inside, and because your allowed for that 1½ inch when the 4-by-4s were cut, the tub will rest comfortably on the 2-by-4 top. The tub will also push down on the silicone caulk, which, when dry, will act like a waterproof seal as well as a glue to hold the tub in place. With a moist rag, wipe off the silicone on the rest of the top.

  • Finish the box with side panels. This is your choice; you may either use redwood or cedar siding and cut them to length to finish off the box, or use regular ½-inch plywood. You will need some type of panels though. They should be cut to the length and width of the sides of the hot tub, then attached with glue and screws. Use a screw at least every 12 inches along the edges where the panels meet the frame.

  • Finish this box with a wood preservative, either a stain or a water sealant. Apply liberally on all sides and on the top. This will seal out any water and will keep the hot tub box looking good for its lifetime.

Tips & Warnings

  • If you have never done this type of project before, make sure that there is a clear forecast for several days. This way, if it takes you longer than you expected, you will not have your project delayed or even ruined by rain.
  • Always wear safety glasses when using power tools.

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