How to Choose the Right Hair Color

The box didn't say Ronald McDonald Red!

You're thinking about coloring your hair: maybe you have some gray showing, maybe you want something new and drastic. But where to begin? Do you pick up one of those boxes from the drugstore or pay someone to do it? This article will give you the basics so you understand how to pick the right color and what your options are.

Things You'll Need

• Color chart (see below)
• Good light
• Beauty Supply Store

Instructions

1. 

   The first thing you need to do is understand the difference between professional hair color and "store bought box" color. Your hair, magnified, looks just like the trunk of a palm tree. The hair cuticle is essentially layered, like bark. Store bought color just sits on the outside of the cuticle. It's just made up of metallic dyes which essentially stain the hair, which is why it rarely comes out as the box says it will. Word to the wise: the box color you buy in the store is just garbage. However, the hair color that a professional uses actually opens the cuticle and changes the color pigment. In the case of lightening, it goes in, breaks up color and gets back out before the cuticle is damaged. In the case of darkening, it goes in, deposits color and gets back out. The results are long lasting and far more gentle.

   As a non-professional you still have access to the good hair color, you just have to visit a beauty store like Sally's.

2. 

   Before you choose the color you want to be, you need to identify where you are now. Hair color is characterized by two things: level and tone. Level is how dark or light the color is; it goes on a 1-10 scale. One is black, 10 is very light blond.

   Check out this scale, where do you think your natural hair fits in terms of color? I'm naturally a level 7, a dishwater dark blond. Where does your hair fall in terms of level? Now you know what the numbers on the boxes mean!

3. 

   The second identifying factor is the tone: warm, cool, neutral. Someone with fairly ashy hair color has a "cool" hair color. My tone is actually fairly neutral, so my hair color is 7N (for neutral).

   Mother nature knew what she was doing with humans. Your natural hair color works with your skin tone. When you start to change the color, your best bet is sticking with the same tone as what you have now. Someone with cool tones will look odd with hair that is overly warm, it will make them look washed out.

   In terms of level, the rule of thumb is changing no more than 2 levels. So if you're a 6, you can get to an 8. The same is true for depositing (darkening or changing tone), no more than two levels. If you do more than 2 the results are more drastic, the re-growth is glaringly obvious and there is more damage to the hair cuticle. Write down what your level and tone are now, and what your ultimate goal is. Head to the beauty supply store.

4. 

   The color needs to be mixed with a developer to make it active, and those come in varying levels of intensity. The beauty store staff will help you pick the right developer and show you how to mix it. If you're doing a root re-touch you'll need a plastic bottle with a small spout, if you're doing an all over you'll need a hair color brush. Buy what you need and head home.

5. Read my article called "How to Apply Hair Color" for instructions for the rest!

   How to Apply Hair Color
   http://www.ehow.com/how_4791973_apply-hair-color.html

Tips & Warnings

• Note: If your hair is already colored, you can identify where you are now, but your choices for getting to the new place are more limited. Once your hair is colored, you cannot use color to lighten. The color that promises to make your hair lighter, is meant for virgin hair (untreated). Color can't lift color, it just doesn't work.

• Remember to use shampoo and conditioner for chemically treated hair

• Always protect your eyes, hair color can (and will!) cause blindness if it gets your eyes.