How to Design a Dress

Professional designers can draw a sketch of a dress and then make patterns from scratch using drafting or fabric-draping techniques. However, if you’re new to dress design, you may want to use an existing pattern (or patterns) as a starting point. You can then modify the pattern as needed to match your personal style and your body type to create your dream dress. Although it’s important to keep in mind the kind of fabric the finished dress will have as you design it, you’ll want to practice your design on muslin or inexpensive cotton first.

Difficulty: Moderately Challenging

Instructions

Things You'll Need:

• Paper and pencil
• Dress pattern
• Measuring tape
• Scissors
• Tape
• Muslin
• Straight pins
• Sewing machine and thread

Design a Dress

1. Decide what length you want the dress to be. Some common dress lengths are above the knee, at the knee, below the knee, midcalf, ankle length or floor length.

2. Decide how tight-fitting you want the skirt. You can make the skirt a slim sheath (with or without slits), mermaid style, A-line, pleated or full and heavily gathered. The hem of the dress can be straight, or it can have angular or handkerchief hems.

3. Choose the kind of sleeves you want. You may want the dress to be strapless or off-the-shoulder, or have spaghetti straps, cap sleeves, short sleeves, 3/4 sleeves, tight-fitting long sleeves or loose, flowing sleeves.

4. Pick a neckline style for the dress. You may want the neckline to be low-cut, scooped, scalloped or square, or you may want a V-neck or sweetheart neckline. Decide on a neckline for the back of the dress, too.

5. Draw a sketch of the dress you want, experimenting with different features and combinations until you get a look you like. Or look through a pattern catalog for inspiration.

6. Decide which color you’d like the dress, and which types of fabric it should be made from. For example, an evening dress with loose, flowing sleeves will often use satin for the body and chiffon or double-georgette for the sleeves.

Make and Test the Patterns

7. Find a pattern that matches your dream dress as closely as possible. Look especially for one that matches the overall fit and the features you want most. You may need to combine several patterns (for example, the sleeves of one and the skirt of another) to achieve the look you want.

8. Cut out the pattern pieces you need. Since many patterns have more than one size, be sure to cut along the lines for the size you need.

9. Make any basic alterations to the patterns, such as shortening or lengthening the skirt, first. Many patterns have markings on them where you can cut or fold the pattern to make it shorter, or add paper to make it longer.

10. Modify the neckline of the bodice by cutting away part of the pattern, or by taping extra paper to it. Modify the other pieces the same way.

11. Line up the pattern pieces. If you’re using the pieces from more than one pattern (for example, the bodice of one and the sleeves of another), trim the pieces as needed to fit each other, making sure to leave room for seam allowance.

12. Pin the pattern pieces together to see how they fit. You may want to try on the pattern pieces, being careful not to hurt yourself on a pin or rip the patterns.

13. Cut the pattern pieces from muslin or cheap fabric once you’ve finishing modifying them. Sew the muslin pieces together and try them on. Adjust the patterns as needed.

Tips & Warnings

• If you’ve modified only part of the pattern, such as the bodice, you may need to make a muslin test of only that part.
• Once the patterns work with the muslin, you’re ready to cut the dress pieces from the real fabric.
• Use caution when working with scissors, pins and sewing machines. Attempt projects appropriate for your skill level.