How to Sew a French Seam

The French seam, most often used on sheer fabrics such as lingerie, lightweight blouses and infant clothing, is a self-finished seam. It looks like a plain seam on the outside, but the wrong side resembles a neat fold. Sewing a French seam takes a little more time, but the result is worth the effort.

Difficulty: Moderately Easy

Instructions

1. Choose the appropriate-sized needle for the fabric you are sewing. When you are sewing seams on delicate fabric, needle choice make a difference.

2. Pin the wrong sides of the fabric together and stitch a ½-inch seam. Some patterns may vary and offer their own suggestions for seam allowances, but the procedure is the same.

3. Trim the seam carefully, leaving a 1/8-inch seam allowance. This step is important, so the edges of the fabric won't show on the right side of the garment when the seam is finished.

4. Press open the seam using the tip of the iron being careful not to burn your fingers. Then join the right sides of the seams together and press again.

5. Pin the right sides together and sew a ¼-inch seam. You are forming an encased edge on the inside of the seam, enclosing the raw edges as you sew.

6. Return to the ironing board and press the seam to one side.

Tips & Warnings

• Use the French seam on straight seams. It is more difficult to obtain a neat, flat seam on curved areas.
• When pressing a seam open, use the setting appropriate for the fabric you are pressing. Damage to delicate fabric may occur if the iron is too hot.
• Make sure your seams are correct before you do any trimming. Once you cut the seam allowance off, it's difficult to correct a mistake.

Resources

• Find a sewing machine needle guide at denverfabrics.com.