How to Pick a Ruby

Rubies have long been considered one of the treasures of the world.

Rubies are considered the most precious of stones--not only by people born in July, for whom ruby is the birthstone, but also by couples getting engaged, married or simply expressing the fire of love. The finest gemstones are rare, but you can trust the old saying, "Seek and you shall find." Whether you are searching for an exquisitely cut ruby to give to your intended or simply to have a chunk of the raw stone, you can learn to pick the perfect ruby.

Things You'll Need

• Books on gemstones
• Images of rubies and ruby jewelry
• Magnifying glass
• Lighting source
• Mining tools (optional)

Instructions

Raw Stones

1. Visit your local gem and mineral store or a metaphysical shop that sells raw and uncut stones. Alternatively, go to a public mine, if there is one in your area, and dig for yourself. This is an art unto itself, and since rubies are primarily found in Burma, Thailand and Sri Lanka, your best shot is to pore through the stones already mined.

2. Look for the shade you prefer. All rubies are a shade of red, with some appearing lighter pink and others the rich color of pomegranate seeds.

3. Hold individual stones up to the light. Look at the clarity of each. If the stone is firmly embedded in a matrix, it's harder to see through the stone but turning it in multiple directions will give you good perspective.

4. Look for any chips or scratches.

5. Find a raw stone that appeals to your senses. If you get a visual "hit" on a particular rock, and especially if you find you can't set it back in the display, it's probably a good choice. The raw stones are best chosen by gut instinct. If you like how it looks and feels, it's probably the perfect stone for you.

Cut Stones

1. Visit a fine, high-end jewelry store with a reputation for selling rubies. If you don't have a ruby specialist in your vicinity, find a quality jeweler. Avoid department stores with a small jewelry section, as few clerks will be able to assist you as you deserve.

2. Ask for the jeweler directly and state that you want to buy a ruby. Tell the jeweler your price range and what the stone will be used for. If it will be for the design of a ring, it's handy to take along some images of what you have in mind.

3. Ask the jeweler to describe each stone from his perspective and examine each, noting how many facets are cut into each stone.

4. Compare the three rubies that most appeal to you. Decide if you prefer a round cut to an oval or teardrop shape. Keep the one that strikes you as the most stunning. If you can't find loose stones that bowl you over, look at those already in ring settings. You may find the perfect ruby already inlaid.

Tips & Warnings

• Be careful when handling finely cut stones. Most jewelers will lay out a piece of velvet or other fabric atop a cushion or viewing platform. Some of the stones are quite small, so be gentle with them and don't knock them about. View each one independently at first, then lay your choices side by side for comparisons.

• Imagine how the person you are purchasing it for will feel on seeing the stone(s). Whether you're buying for yourself or another, in a matter of minutes you'll be able to reduce your choice to the brightest, reddest and most finely cut.

• When shopping for rings, stick to your budget. You can get an idea on the current costs of rubies by visiting quality jewelry stores online or even by window shopping. It's very easy to be tempted to purchase something quite beyond your price range once you start viewing the cut stones and rings. The beauty of rubies can be tantalizing, so remain in control as best you're able.

• Almost all natural rubies have tiny needle-like inclusions of the mineral rutile (termed 'silk'). Avoid inclusion-free natural rubies, which may have been excessively treated or could be man-made.

• Most rubies are cut in southeast Asia, and the quality of the cut may be less than optimum. Make sure that the ruby you choose has an acceptable level of symmetry, polish and overall cut quality. Avoid rubies with unusual-looking cuts or irregularly-shaped facets.

References

• Claddagh Rings: Ruby Rings
• Nevada Outback Gems: Ruby Mineral Facts
• American Gem Society: Ruby

Resources

• American Gem Society: Jewelry Buying 101