How to Clip a Quickdraw When Rock Climbing

Sport climbing is a very popular form of rock climbing. A climber ascends a rock face using only the power of his own body, protecting himself by clipping the rope to a quickdraw. The quickdraws are connected to a series of expansion bolts drilled securely in the rock. The safety of the climber depends on executing the clip quickly and correctly.

Difficulty: Moderate

Instructions

Things You'll Need:

• Climbing harness
• Climbing shoes
• Climbing helmet (strongly recommended)
• Belay device
• Dynamic climbing rope (length and diameter varies: eHow staff recommends 10mm diameter and 60m length)
• Approximately 10 quickdraws (two carabiners linked by a stretch of webbing)
• 2 extra quickdraws for the anchor (preferably with locking carabiners on the bottom)

1. GETTING READY
   
   Step 1:
   Put on your harness appropriately. Remember to double-back your buckles.
   
   Step 2:
   Tie the rope into your harness using a figure eight retrace knot. Be sure to use two points of contact and a safety knot.
   
   Step 3:
   Hang the draw. When actually climbing, the quickdraw is hung from the bolted hangers. Remember to face the spine of the carabiner towards the line of the route. “Spine towards the Line.”
   For practicing, you can hook the draw from anything that allows the bottom carabiner to hang. Exposed basement piping, shower bar or a clothesline. Be creative! Or if you have the equipment, you can drill a bolt and hanger to plywood. Ideally the bottom carabiner will swing, and the top carabiner will be fixed.

2. 

   GATE FACING LEFT
   There are two ways you might hang the quickdraw while climbing. In one scenario, the gate will face the left with the spine on the right. In this situation you have two options: clip with your left hand or clip with your right hand. Usually the climb will decide, so you must be able to do both correctly and with little effort.
   
   OPTION A
   
   Right Hand Step 1:
   Reach down with your right hand and grab the rope just below the figure eight retrace knot, palm facing up.

3. Right Hand Step 2:
   Slide your hand down, letting the rope glide through your lose grip. This ensures you don't Z-clip.

4. Right Hand Step 3:
   When you have enough rope to reach the bottom carabiner of the quickdraw, pull up the rope.

5. 

   Right Hand Step 4:
   As you approach the quickdraw, pinch the rope between your thumb and forefinger while extending your middle finger towards the bottom carabiner.

6. 

   Right Hand Step 5:
   Use your middle finger to pull down on the bottom of the carabiner, stabilizing it so it will not swing.

7. 

   Right Hand Step 6:
   Push the rope through the gate of the carabiner with your thumb while maintaining the downward pressure with your middle finger. Always make sure you don't back-clip. Check that your end of the rope is coming up and out of the carabiner towards your tie-in point. The belayer's end should be laying against the rock.

8. OPTION B
   
   Left Hand Step 1:
   Repeat Steps 1-3 from above, simply changing to your left hand.

9. 

   Left Hand Step 2:
   As you approach the quickdraw, open your hand so that it creates a gun shape. Your pinkie and ring finger will still be curled around the rope while your forefinger and middle finger extend as the barrel of a a revolver. Your thumb is open in midair. The rope should be resting in the crease between your forefinger and middle finger.

10. 

    Left Hand Step 3:
    Clasp the carabiner between your thumb and your first two fingers. The rope should be pinned between your fingers and the gate of the carabiner. Using opposing pressure, push the rope through the gate. Again check that the rope is coming up from the belayer against the rock, through the carabiner and out towards you.

11. 

    GATE FACING RIGHT
    The second scenario involves hanging the quickdraw so that the gate is facing right, and the spine is on the left. There are still only two options: right hand and left hand. The techniques are the same as above only your hands are doing the opposite actions.
    
    OPTION A
    
    Left Hand Step 1:
    Reach down with your left hand and grab the rope just below the figure eight retrace knot, palm facing up.

12. Left Hand Step 2:
    Slide your hand down, letting the rope glide through your lose grip.

13. Left Hand Step 3:
    When you have enough length, pull up the rope.

14. 

    Left Hand Step 4:
    As you approach the quickdraw, pinch the rope between your thumb and forefinger while extending your middle finger towards the bottom carabiner.

15. 

    Left Hand Step 5:
    Stabilize the carabiner by pulling down with your middle finger.

16. 

    Left Hand Step 6:
    Push the rope through the gate of the carabiner with your thumb while maintaining the downward pressure with your middle finger. Don't forget to check that your end of the rope is coming up and out of the carabiner towards your tie-in point with the belayer's end laying against the rock.

17. OPTION B
    
    Right Hand Step 1:
    Repeat Steps 1-3 from above, simply changing to your right hand.

18. 

    Right Hand Step 2:
    As you approach the quickdraw, open your hand so that it creates a gun shape. Your pinkie and ring finger will still be curled around the rope while your forefinger and middle finger extend as the barrel of a a revolver. Your thumb is open in midair. The rope should be resting in the crease between your forefinger and middle finger.

19. 

    Right Hand Step 3:
    Clasp the carabiner between your thumb and your first two fingers. The rope should be pinned between your fingers and the gate of the carabiner. Using opposing pressure, push the rope through the gate. Always check that the rope is coming up from the belayer against the rock, through the carabiner and out towards you.

Tips & Warnings

• Some climbers like to push their fingers or thumbs all the way through the gate as well as the rope. Experiment with this option on easier routes. Your fingers may be too large to use this method.
• These techniques are only a suggestion on how to successfully clip a quickdraw. Whatever method you choose, it should be quick, efficient and correct every time.
• Z-clipping occurs when a climber grabs a section of the rope below his last clip and reaches up to clip the next bolt. If you fall when Z-clipped, you will fall down to the last bolt clipped correctly. Such a fall good result in serious injury.
• Back-clipping occurs when a climber clips into a quickdraw backwards with his end of the rope against the rock. If you fall when back-clipped, you could fall across the gate of the carabiner and unclip yourself. Such a fall would likely result in serious injury.
• Climbing is an inherently dangerous sport. Seek expert instruction before participating in this sport. Most climbing gyms offer a wide range of classes taught by certified instructors.

[maeteege]

on 10/19/2009 Thanks for the instruction above, I found it very clear and understandable :)