Things You'll Need:
- Fuel Filters
- Car Parts
- Spark Plugs
- Car Manuals
- Oil Filters
- Phillips-head Screwdriver Sets
- Distributor Caps
- Air Filters
- Spark Plug Gapping Tools
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Step 1
Replace the fuel filter. If you have a fuel-injection system, regular cleaning isn't necessary unless the injectors are clogged.
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Step 2
Change the spark plugs (unless they're platinum, in which case you have 30,000 more miles to go). Also examine the spark plug wires and replace as needed. A new set of high-quality wires is worth the cost. They may be permanently attached to the distributor cap, so it will have to be changed as well.
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Step 3
Replace the distributor cap and rotor if your car has them (some newer models with distributorless ignition don't).
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Step 4
Change the points and condenser if you have an older car (roughly 1978 or older) that doesn't feature electronic ignition. You'll actually want your points changed, or at least adjusted, every six months or so (if they're changed, check the ignition timing as well).
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Step 5
Check the ignition timing and adjust as needed (rare for a car with electronic ignition--post-1980--and some cars don't allow this at all).
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Step 6
Adjust the valves as needed (unless your car has hydraulic valves). Be sure to replace the valve-cover gasket as well, especially if you see oil on top of your engine.
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Step 7
Check the belts. Replace if worn.
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Step 8
Check the fluids under the hood and replenish as necessary. Change the oil and oil filter if it's been 3,000 miles since the last oil change.
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Step 9
Replace the air filter, which should be changed between major services--every 15,000 miles--as well.
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Step 10
Adjust the clutch, if you have a manual transmission (although some cars now sport self-adjusting clutches).
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Step 11
Service the battery, adding distilled water (if required), cleaning terminals and cable ends.
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Step 12
Replace the PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) valve. It can make your car run rough or stall if it gets clogged, and it's cheap and easy to replace.










Comments
zemzem82 said
on 1/31/2009 great article. wheres a pcv located- zemzem.ecrater.com
gravity said
on 2/5/2008 i need a step by step on how to tune up a lexus IS 300, 2002 model any suggestions for a hands on approach this is my first time
stelee said
on 3/29/2007 I'm doing a tune up for my dads 97 astro chevy van, and i tell you, its a hassle. Ofcourse, i'm new in the whole automotive scene since i'm a teen and i'm doing this for auto class in school... but before you start doing a tune up on your own, seek some advice and see if your car will be a pain in the ass to do and instead of saving your self money by doing it on your own and spending a whole day to do it, consider perhaps saving your time instead and part with the money. however, this is a great learning experience for me, so i find that its worth it.
stelee said
on 3/29/2007 I'm doing a tune up for my dads 97 astro chevy van, and i tell you, its a hassle. Ofcourse, i'm new in the whole automotive scene since i'm 17 and i'm doing this for auto class in school... but before you start doing a tune up on your own, seek some advice and see if your car will be a pain in the ass to do and instead of saving your self by doing it on your own and spending a whole day to do it, consider perhaps saving your time instead and part with the money. however, this is a great learning experience for me.
Anonymous said
on 6/30/2006 Do your research before purchasing a K&N air filter. I have had three ASE & GM certified mechanics tell me that they can cause a lot of problems. The oil used to coat the filter can drip/coat the mass air flow sensor in some vehicles (like my 1996 Trans AM WS6), causing the computer to do all sorts of funky things trying to compensate for the incorrect readings coming from the soiled sensor. Now, because of this thing, I need a full tune-up and my catalytic converters have been cooked, needing replacement. Some vehicles may be safer than others, but do your homework and talk to someone knowledgeable.