How to Buy Rock Climbing Shoes

Rock climbing shoes are the first and most important piece of equipment you can purchase to improve your rock climbing performance.

Difficulty: Easy

Instructions

Things You'll Need:

• Climbing Gear
• Climbing Harnesses
• Climbing Helmets
• Climbing Ropes
• Climbing Shoes

1. Determine the type of climbing shoe you need. Traditional shoes are for long climbs, including cracks, face, chimneys, and slabs. They generally have a board last, fit a little more loosely than other climbing shoes, and are comfortable for many hours of climbing. Sport shoes are for mostly face climbing, limited crack climbing, and some climbing gym activity. They are generally slip-lasted and fit more tightly. Performance shoes are generally for overhanging sport routes, bouldering, and competition - not for beginners.

2. Find a climbing shop with a large selection that's deep in sizes. You're going to need to try rock shoes on in person.

3. Note that a good shop will have an artificial wall in the shop for trying shoes out. You're not buying the shoes to walk around in.

4. Give yourself plenty of time. Go shopping by yourself or with a very patient friend.

5. Try on every shoe in the place. Ruin the salesperson's day. You don't want to rush the purchase and find yourself unlacing the shoes on every pitch because you made a hasty decision.

6. Check for snugness. A good-fitting climbing shoe is going to be very, very snug, especially if you're buying a sport shoe.

7. Make sure your toes are cramming into the toe box evenly. If the toe box feels really tight in one spot and not so tight in another, compare the fit with a different manufacturer's shoes.

8. Lace the shoes tightly. The eyes of the lacing should not touch - if the eyes of the lacing touch when the shoes are new, they'll be floppy when the shoes are broken in.

Tips & Warnings

• Most shoes will stretch only a little after you've worn them for 15 or 20 pitches of climbing. How much the shoe will stretch depends on the construction of the shoe and the fit. Just be aware that there will be some amount of stretch.
• You're probably better off with traditional shoes if you're new to the sport and plan to spend your time climbing outdoors on real rock.
• If you're planning on spending significant time indoors - whether you're new to the sport or not - you should go with sport shoes.
• Make sure you find the size you need. If the shop doesn't have every conceivable size that might fit you, try another shop.

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[theclimbergirl]

on 4/16/2008 Overall, the advice is good -- but I wouldn't use the word "cram" to describe how one's toes should be in the toe box. I have shoes that range from snug to roomy (for different purposes) and even one pair of my high performance shoes (which I climb in all the time) fit my feet but are not at all tight. In my experience, a lot of beginners buy their shoes too big or too small. Here's some additional information about how to choose rock climbing shoes: http://www.rockclimbergirl.com/2008/04/how-to-choose-rock-climbing-shoes.html