How to Choose Poultry

Fly away from flavorless plastic-wrapped birds and head for the free range. Uncaged, organic chickens are more flavorful than traditional chicks. Buy your bird either whole for roasting or cut into legs, thighs, wings and breasts. Removing the skin before cooking decreases the fat by 25 to 30 percent, but decreases the flavor as well.

Difficulty: Easy

Instructions

1. Buy broilers and fryers at 45 days old, typically between 3-4.5 pounds They're good, obviously, broiled and fried. Roast them whole with a lemon and olive oil or cut them up for grilling and poaching.

2. Buy capon. These are 10-week-old cocks, castrated young, weighing 8-10 pounds. They are the couch potatoes of the poultry world, afforded the opportunity to grow old and fat in comfort. Their meat is mild, and their size makes them perfect for holiday meals. Order these ahead of time from a butcher or specialty market with the expectation of paying slightly more than for other birds.

3. Buy roasters. These are also 10-week-old cocks, weighing 4.5-8 pounds. Roasters are big-breasted with more meat per pound than most birds. Stuff them with ricotta, minced garlic and spinach directly under the skin before sprinkling with kosher salt and roasting.

4. Buy rock Cornish hens at 5-6 weeks old, weighing 1-2 pounds. These are great roasted for an elegant party or split open to grill or broil.

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