The History of Houndstooth

Houndstooth, also known as houndstooth check, originated in Scotland at an unrecorded date. Its traditional colors are black and white, though modern versions use more colorful subsititutions. According to John Telfer Dunbar's "The Costume of Scotland," houndstooth was originally made on woven wool cloth, but it's since made its way to tweed and other fabrics. A similar style pattern is known as Glen Plaid.

Early Use

Houndstooth went in and out of popularity, and was used on clothing and accessories alike. Traditionally, it's one of the staples of a chef uniform, but its origins are unknown.

Merriam-Webster records that the term was in use in 1936.

Bear Bryant

Perhaps the most famous ambassador for houndstooth was football coach Paul "Bear" Bryant, who was known for his houndstooth hats. Bryant coached the University of Alabama team from 1958-82, and the university store now offers houndstooth goods in its store.

In 2006, the Alabama team wore houndstooth uniforms to commemorate 25 years since Bryant's 315th win. That year, the Alabama Cycling Club team sought approval for a houndstooth uniform of its own. The cyclists' bid was rejected due to the de facto trademark status born of houndstooth's long association with Bryant.

1960s

Houndstooth enjoyed a resurgence in popularity in the 1960s. Geoffrey Beene combined it with lace for a new look, and Anne Klein made women's suits modeled on men's styling, also using the houndstooth pattern. A 1968 ad in the Sydney Morning Herald sells stretch houndstooth fabric for home sewing.

Chevrolet even sold Camaros upholstered in houndstooth. (Modern-day enthusiasts can purchase kits to equip their own Camaros.)

Recent

In the 1980s, designers like Chanel picked up houndstooth again and put their own stamp on the fabric. It wasn't until around 2005, though, that the design started to make its most latest comeback. Designers Emporio Armani, Lous Vuitton and Moschino all started using houndstooth, which has subsequently made it to the shelves of non-haute stores.

Future

Looking back on fashion history, houndstooth seems to reinvents itself every 20 to 30 years. The current slew of bright, bold designs will pass and be replaced by the next thing. In a decade or so, a designer will bring it back, and repeat the cycle of houndstooth and the fashion industry as a whole.

References

• Bryant Museum: Paul Bryant Biography
• Geoffrey Beene Timeline
• Chanel: Houndstooth in the 1980s