Pleated Dockers vs. Flat-Front Khaki Pants
The runways may shy away from it, but the pleated pant refuses to die. Dockers, an American leisure-time fashion institution, makes the quintessential pleated khaki pant. The pant's direct competition: flat-front khakis, also produced by the same company. Although many call the roomier pleated cut old-fashioned and passe, men often avoid the more snug flat-fronts out of concern and misunderstanding. By comparing the two, it's easy to see that there's room in the sartorial landscape for both silhouettes. Does this Spark an idea?
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Pleated vs. Flat Front: What is the Difference?
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Pleated pants are cut differently than flat-fronts. Pleated Dockers, for example, have small, specially sized creases at the waist that are folded and sewn down before the waistband is attached. Flat-fronts, on the other hand, have a dart, which is a contouring feature that lies flush against the body. Thus, pleated Dockers will have a fuller shape around the middle area than the flat-fronts. The pleated pants will also have a more generous amount of wearing ease compared to a flat-front trouser.
History
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The flat-front isn't a new design concept. In the 1950s, flat-front pants were the norm. The fit of pants and suits was slim, tailored and spare, without a lot of movement in the fabric. It was only in the 1970s and '80s that the pleated pant came into fashion, along with a very loose silhouette. Pleated Dockers became a staple in many American men's closets, and a whole generation of businessmen came to depend on these pants for their office and leisure wardrobes. However, the baggy style fell out of fashion in favor of the more structured look, which brought back the flat-front pant. A bunch of men are still holding on to their now-dated pleats.
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Flat-Front Problems
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The biggest problem with flat-fronts is their unforgiving cut. Unlike pleated Dockers, a flat-front pair of khakis will show that little bit of tummy in all its glory, leaving little to the imagination. Sara Switzer of the Washington Post writes, "Too many men look at flat-fronts, see discomfort and scurry back to the baggier, more forgiving model they're used to." A man may be able to trick himself into believing that he's smaller than he is while wearing pleated Dockers, since the extra ease allows a bit more breathing room. Not so with flat-fronts, which require honest sizing; this can be an issue, especially since most men purchase their pants one or two sizes too small. Switzer notes, "This looks bad in a pleat but disastrous in a flat-front."
Pleated Dockers Issues
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However, men that still stick to their pleated Dockers risk looking aged and behind the times. Pleated pants also visually add several inches and pounds to the stomach and hip area. They ride high; mens' suit vendor Megasuits writes, "First thing to know, the pleated pants are worn on the natural waist, that is somewhere in between the hips and the belly button area." High-riding, roomy pants aren't likely to complement a young, slim man. Even though many suits come with pleated pants, the jacket serves to cover the extra fabric. Not so with a pair of Dockers. In that case, the pleats, along with the potentially unflattering cut, are right out in the open.
Which Is Better?
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Flat-fronts are the way to go for men who are more style-conscious. Pleated Dockers are to be avoided, since there's usually no jacket to cover evidence of bad fashion. However, pleated pants as part of a suit are perfectly fine. GQ's Style Guy agrees that pleated pants are here for the long haul, saying, "I believe that pleats will be with us always, almost for engineering reasons," since they're more roomy and comfortable in the seat. For the thoroughly modern male, however, flat-front khakis are the approved fit for casual wear.
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References
- Photo Credit Ed Yourdon: Creative Commons
