Is Glycolic Acid Safe?

For more than 30 years, glycolic acid has been used in facial cosmetics and skin care products and is a natural substance derived from fruits and sugar cane. It is included in the category of alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) and acts as an exfoliant, meaning it removes dead cells from the skin's surface. Although there are precautions consumers should be aware of prior to applying glycolic acid products, these items have been used safely for decades by many users who follow recommended usage instructions. Does this Spark an idea?

  1. Identification

    • Glycolic acid cosmetic products are recognized for safely renewing the skin's surface; removing scars, wrinkles and fine lines; tightening and smoothing the skin; unblocking pores; lightening discolorations; and countering other skin conditions that manifest due to aging. The acid is also used to successfully treat acne. (Ref. #1)

    Function

    • The caustic effect of glycolic acid is what makes it effective in producing changes on the skin's surface. The acid essentially burns off damaged skin, leaving behind a smoother, healthier and more youthful-looking skin covering. Proper use and application of these acid products partially determines how safe they will prove to be for users. (Ref. #1)

    Considerations

    • The U.S. government considers glycolic acid safe for use only when a product's concentration of the acid is 10 percent or less; otherwise, it is considered a hazard to the human body. Additional safety requirements from the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel state that products containing the acid should have a pH level of 3.5 or more and should be specifically made to protect skin from sun sensitivity or they should have warning labels advising users to use daily sun protection. (Ref. #2)

    Warning

    • Studies have confirmed that glycolic acid and other AHAs increase the skin's sensitivity to UV radiation from the sun. For that reason, use of sunscreen and protective clothing is recommended for safety purposes as long as such acids are used on the skin. (Ref. #2)

    Types

    • Skin peelers are one type of glycolic acid product that are of primary concern when it comes to safety. They contain higher levels of glycolic acid or other AHAs for the purpose of removing the outer skin layer. At one time, only dermatologists or plastic surgeons administered treatments of this type of product, but now individuals, women in particular, have access to these products from their local salon or beautician. (Ref. #1 & 3)

    Significance

    • Skin peelers are considered safer when a doctor is responsible for oversight of treatments, which range normally from one to two weeks with brief, daily applications of the acidic product. This causes skin to redden, as from overexposure to sunlight, then become dark and eventually peel off, leaving a layer of smoother skin. Critics, however, say the process can be painful and lead to permanent scarring. (Ref. #3)

    Effects

    • Some negative effects that can result from improper use of glycolic acid or other AHAs include skin reddening, burning, dermatitis or rash, blisters, welts, itching, swelling, irritation or tenderness. (Ref. #2) Injuries on record from improper use of skin peelers range from swelling and pain to seizure and shock. (Ref. #3)

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