About Hair Relaxers

Hair relaxers are chemical compounds that are used to straighten naturally curly hair of any texture or color. The use of hair relaxers is popular because it is the only permanent method of straightening hair. However, as with any chemical, they must be used with caution.

Types

There are two main categories of hair relaxers: "lye" and non-lye. The chemical sodium hydroxide is the ingredient that modern hair relaxers refer to as lye. It is the strongest ingredient used in commercially available hair relaxers today. No-lye relaxers combine calcium hydroxide and guanidine carbonate to produce guanidine hydroxide. While guanidine hydroxide is a slightly weaker alkaline agent than sodium hydroxide, it is still caustic.

Function

Both lye and non-lye relaxers use chemicals that are strong bases (the opposite of acid). These alkaline agents penetrate the cortical layer of hair, loosening its naturally curly pattern. Unfortunately, one side effect of breaking down the protein bonds in the hair is that it can not only straighten out curls but cause breakage or weakness.

Warning

All hair relaxers, whether of the lye or no-lye variety, are caustic agents and should be used with extreme caution, particularly on children. When using relaxers at home, it is essential to follow directions to the letter. Relaxers strip away some of the hair's protective coating and proteins, so care should be taken to moisturize and condition the hair before and after treatment to avoid breakage.

Expert Insight

Dermatologist Leslie F. Safer, MD, of Albany, Ga., has treated many patients suffering from burns and abrasions caused by improper application or overuse of relaxers. He states that he believes that straightening hair with chemical relaxers every six weeks (as is common practice) is far too often and can damage both the scalp and hair. He recommends applying these products less often and encourages patients to go to a hair care professional rather than using home-straightening products.

Considerations

Although chemical relaxers are a convenient way to straighten hair for an extended period, there are other means of creating straight hair. A new wave of gentler hair relaxers is entering the market, using alkaline water rather than harsh chemicals to achieve the straight look. Temporary solutions for relaxing hair include the use of a heated flat iron and non-chemical hair strengtheners and smoothers, both of which are available as salon treatments or can be used in the home. One advantage of using non-permanent straightening methods is that it gives versatility in styling in that hair can be worn curly one day and straight the next.

Resources

• The Food and Drug Administration's Fact Sheet About Hair Dye and Relaxers.