A number of techniques are used to get a full head of weave added onto the scalp. This technique is fairly simple, takes less time than traditional methods and produces excellent results. You will need a large needle (or two) with a blunt end, hair weaving thread the color of your natural hair or hair weave, a hair weave, a small strand of hair extensions and a pair of small sharp scissors. Styles that are good for full-head weaves include bangs, afros, center parts and pre-cut hair weaves.
Part the Scalp
Traditionally, a full head of weave was parted in a spiral around the scalp and then braided. In West Africa, the hair is parted into small vertical lines from the forehead to the nape. When the extensions are applied horizontally, the end result fits the shape of the head better. So, the first step is to part the hair as if you were to corn roll it all to the back. Make at least 10 parts of hair.
Braid the Hair
Take the small strand of hair extensions and use a very little at a time to corn roll each part of hair to the back. The extensions will ensure the braid is stiff and last longer than natural hair. Once the hair is braided, connect all the ends by corn rolling them across the nape of the neck.
Knotting the Thread
Now that the hair is braided and connected at the back of the head, the braids need to be secured by sewing them before adding your extensions. Thread your needle and make sure you have a double strand of thread. Knot the end and clip off any remaining thread at the end of the knot. Making sure all ends are neatly clipped off is important because once the weave is in, loose knots and stray threads can show through the hair.
First sew the back row of braids that were connected by horizontally cross-stitching and further securing the corn roll ends. Different hairstyles require different methods of applying hair. However because this is a full-head of weave, section the hair into three segments, the back, front and middle components. The middle component is the smallest piece and is for covering up the weave tracks. Starting from the back, create your first layer about ¼ inch from the secure ends you just sewed. To do this, lay the weave horizontally across the braids, at the back of the scalp. Take the needle and carefully, with a medium amount of pressure, cross stitch across by sewing in one direction over each corn roll, and then bringing it back. Secure the weave by finishing off the stitch with a double or triple knot, or even a surgeons knot. Cut off the hair just sewn from the longer weave piece. Continue on to the next row, which should be about ½ inch from the first row. Continue to the middle of the head. Then, apply the front weave sections the same way. The two sections will now meet in the middle. Apply the middle tracks, and leave out one or two tracks to close the weave.
To close off the tracks, the last track has to be applied to cover up the other tracks. In the case of an afro weave, this step is not necessary, as the hair is puffy. However, for straight styles, this step makes the hairstyle. Until this point, the hair weave has been applied flat, according to the natural way it looks in the pack. By now there should be some space to create a small circular track, like the size of a nickel or even better a dime. Placing the weave on the other side of where you would sew the tracks, sew the weave from the other direction, as if you were sewing it under the corn roll as opposed to over the corn roll. The needle is coming from under as opposed to over. This creates a track that falls over the other tracks. Another option is to sew the last two tracks very close to each other; they have to be facing each other, for example, two sides of a center part. Then, further join these two tracks by going under the patch of hair weave, through the corn rolls and tightening the two more so the scalp is not visible. Flatten the hair by combing and brushing, as well as with hair mousse and a flat iron. Now you have a full head of weave you can cut into a style or leave as is.