DIY Antenna Amplifier
Antenna amplifiers are used to enhance the broadcast signal received by TV, HDTV or radio. By using reflector screens, the amplifier increases the amount of signal the antenna can catch. While there are many antenna amplifiers available on the market, it is more economical to build one. The only specialized part needed is a Balun connector. Baluns are available at most electronic stores and even some dollar stores. Is is a simple coaxial cable connector that terminates in two wires.
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Things You'll Need
- 21-1/2 inch 2x3 wood board
- Ruler
- Pencil
- Wire cutters
- 4 wire hangers
- Drill
- Screw bit
- 18 wood screws
- 18 washers (that fit the screws)
- 8 feet uninsulated copper wire
- 2 heat shrink tubes
- Heat gun
- 2 metal grill screens (15x9)
- Balun connector
- TV Signal Meter (if desired)
Instructions
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1
Mark with board with two lines running its length that are each set in from the edge 1 inch. Mark the line on the left side of the board with an "L" and the one on the right with a "R."
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2
Measure down 2 inches from one end of the board and draw a line across the width of the board. This will be considered the top of the board, and the cross line will be the referred to as the first cross line. Label where the line crosses the ones drawn down the length of the board "1" and "2," respectively, with "1" being on the "L" line and the "2" being on the "R" line.
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3
Measure down 5 1/4 inches from the first cross line and draw a line across the board. Label the point where that line crosses the "L" line "3" and "4" at the point it crosses the "R" line. This is the second cross line.
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4
Measure down 5 1/4 inches from the second cross line and draw a line across the board. Label the point where that line crosses the "L" line "5" and "6" at the point it crosses the "R" line. This is the third cross line.
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5
Measure down 5 1/4 inches from the third cross line and draw a line across the board. Label the point where that line crosses the "L" line "7" and "8" at the point it crosses the "R" line. This is the fourth and final cross line.
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6
Cut four wire hangers in half using a pair of wire cutters. Cut out the hook section so the end result is a "V" shaped wire that will have one side slightly shorter then the other.
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7
Lay the hangers on the board so the bottom of the "V" is on the point where the lines cross and the "V" is running over the side of the boards, perpendicular to the edge.
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8
Place a washer over the bottom of the "V" and start a screw through the washer and into the board. Do not drill the screw flush into the board; just start the screw so it is standing upright and holding the washer in place. Do this for each of the wire hangers.
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9
Wrap one end of the copper wire around the screw (under the washer) at the point labeled "1." Use a drill to drive the screw down flush into the wood. Be careful as the washer locks down into place on the wire hanger that the wire hanger is still in the correct position.
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10
Slide one of the heat shrink tubes onto the wire and bring it all the way up to the screw at "1."
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11
Run the wire diagonally from "1" to the point marked "4." Wrap the wire around the screw and drive the screw into place. Pull the wire from "4" to the point marked "6." Wrap the wire around the screw and drive the screw into place. Check that the wire hangers coming off "4" and "6" are both running over the edge of the board but not touching.
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12
Slide the second heat shrink tube onto the wire and bring it all the way up to the screw at "6."
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13
Run the wire diagonally from "6" to the point marked "7." Wrap the wire around the screw and drive the screw into place. Use wire cutters to cut the wire after the screw is in place.
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14
Wrap one end of the copper wire around the screw (under the washer) at the point labeled "2." Use a drill to drive the screw down flush into the wood. Run the wire diagonally from "2" to the point marked "3." Wrap the wire around the screw and drive the screw into place.
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15
Pull the wire from "3" to the point marked "5." Wrap the wire around the screw and drive the screw into place. Run the wire diagonally from "5" to the point marked "8." Wrap the wire around the screw and drive the screw into place. Use wire cutters to cut off any excess wire.
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16
Slide the heat shrink tubes so they cover the bottom wire where the wires cross. Use a heat gun to shrink the tubes into place. It is important that the copper of the wires do not touch where they cross or this will create noise in the reception. Check that all the wire hangers are pointed over the edges of the board but not touching; make any adjustments necessary before proceeding.
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17
Turn the antenna amplifier over. Measure 2 inches down from the top. Place the edge of one of the grill screens on that mark. Center the grill screen width over the board and screw it in place using washers and screws. Center and attach the second screen on the board so there is a 2-inch gap between the two screens. Turn the amplifier back over.
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18
Attach the Balun. Start a screw and washer on each wire, one half way between "3" and "5" and another half way between "4" and "6." Wrap one of the two connecting wires around each screw and drive the screws into place. Make sure that the washer is covering the copper wire to ensure a good connection. It does not matter which wire is attached to which screw.
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19
Plug the coaxial cable from the TV, HDTV or radio antenna into the top of the Balun, and the amplifier is ready to use.
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1
Tips & Warnings
Connect the Balun to a TV signal meter to most accurately locate the strongest source of broadcast signal.
Make sure there are no major obstacles in front of the amplifier (trees, buildings, hills, etc.) or the signal will be blocked and the amplifier will not work.
References
Resources
- Photo Credit Jupiterimages/Photos.com/Getty Images
