How to Build a Plastic Model

The miniature world of models can spark your imagination and indulge your sense of history. Building models - airplanes, cars, ships - is a skill almost anyone can develop.

Difficulty: Moderately Easy

Instructions

Things You'll Need:

• Gripping Straight Tweezers
• Hobby Paintbrushes
• Elmer's Glue-All
• Desk Lamps
• Detergents
• Hobby Drop Cloths
• Magnifying Lamps
• Superglue
• Tube Cements
• Worktables
• Superglue
• Latex Gloves
• Internet Access
• Computers
• Spray Paints
• Dremel Rotary Tools
• X-Acto Knives
• Needle-nose Pliers
• Putty
• Sandpaper
• Tweezer-nose Pliers
• Needle-nose Pliers
• Sandpaper
• Plastic Model Kits

Painting

1. Remember that your skin surface has a natural oil on it.

2. Wash the assembled model to remove all oil and any other contamination, including excess glue.

3. Begin painting only after the model is completely dry.

4. Shake the spray can thoroughly to mix paint properly.

5. Test the nozzle by spraying a piece of cardboard or other scrap.

6. Plan to spray on multiple thin coats rather than one thick coat.

7. Put parts to be painted on a drop cloth.

8. Start spraying to one side of the model, stroke over the model, and spray past the model before you stop.

Assembling the Model

9. Find a place, complete with a large table and adequate lighting, where you can lay out your model for assembly.

10. Choose a kit within your skill level.

11. Open the kit.

12. Cut, rather than break, individual parts from the plastic trunk they're attached to.

13. Lay out the parts.

14. Compare the parts included to the list of parts needed.

15. Use sandpaper to remove nubs and excess plastic resulting from the manufacturing process.

16. Wash the parts in a mild detergent and allow to dry.

17. Collect your tools.

18. Follow the parts assembly sequence exactly.

19. Use the minimum amount of glue necessary to make a solid bond.

20. Be careful to keep excess glue off other areas of the model.

21. Enhance your assembly finish by filling in gaps with putty and carefully sanding the filled surface.

Applying Decals

22. Make sure the decal is clean.

23. Clean the surface of the model where the decal is to be applied.

24. Use tweezers when moving or applying decals.

25. Loosen and prepare decals by using absolutely clean water.

26. Remember that you can customize your model by applying aftermarket decals.

Tips & Warnings

• Tube cements will actually weld plastic parts together by melting the plastic. Use superglue for delicate parts rather than tube cement, which would deform their shape.
• Clear parts show glue easily. Some modelers suggest using Elmer's glue, which will not mar the finish on a clear part.
• Exercise care with glue. Glue fumes in a confined area can be hazardous.
• Skin oils can result in fingerprints embedded permanently in a model's finish. Consider wearing latex gloves.

[DocVibe]

on 4/11/2008 If your paint job on your plastic model turns out bad and you want to repaint or you just want to change the color of an older model. You can use Easy-Off oven cleaner and a soft tooth brush. Spray it on and wait about 5 mins before using the tooth brush. It will strip off all the paint right down to the bare resin.

F.Y.I. - My day job is building the Dodge Charger and Challenger.

Doc
Brampton Ontario, Canada

[DocVibe]

on 4/11/2008 If your paint job turns out bad and you want to repaint or you just want to change the color of an older model. You can use Easy-Off oven cleaner and a soft tooth brush. Spray it on and wait about 5 mins before using the tooth brush. It will strip off all the paint right down to the bare resin.

F.Y.I. - My day job is building the Dodge Charger and Challenger.

Doc
Brampton Ontario, Canada

[Punchow]

on 1/28/2008 Step Four is and excellent suggestion but should be approached with caution. Cutting/removing the parts from the sprues could lead to problems as most parts are identified by numbers on the sprues. This is especially true if yours is a complicated kit. I suggest photocopying the sprues PRIOR to removing the parts. Even still this may not solve the identity problem but goes a long way toward it. What I do (I've been modeling for almost 40yrs) is match parts in the instructions that require similar color treatment or assemblies that are painted a single color (there are different schools of thought on this so do what works for you). Automitve engines are a good example as the block is usually comprised of several parts and can be easily painted after assembly. This assures an easier to assemble and better looking engine. Excellent suggestion on this site. Good Luck, Punchow.

[Punchow]

on 1/28/2008 Step Four is and excellent suggestion but should be approached with caution. Cutting/removing the parts from the sprues could lead to problems as most parts are identified by numbers on the sprues. This is especially true if yours is a complicated kit. I suggest photocopying the sprues PRIOR to removing the parts. Even still this may not solve the identity problem but goes a long way toward it. What I do (I've been modeling for almost 40yrs) is match parts in the instructions that require similar color treatment or assemblies that are painted a single color. Automitve engines are a good example as the block is usually comprised of several parts and can be easily painted after assembly. This assures an easier to assemble and better looking engine. Excellent suggestion on this site. Good Luck, Bert

on 9/16/2006 The plastic stand pedestals that come with your model are both flimsy and inferior looking. They don't represent the modeler's effort or imagination. To achieve a "museum" look, buy two solid, pre-drilled, brass "lamp couplings" from any good hardware store (quite inexpensive). Attach them with wood or machine screws, between your hull, or keel, and a well finished wooden base. Then contemplate your handmade masterpiece.