Taking apart the Hayward Super II pump looks daunting. The large one-piece housing is imposing, with six bolts arrayed around the motor mounting plate. It is easy to imagine hidden set screws, corroded clamps and exotic fasteners inside. Removing the drive assembly components is surprisingly fast, requiring only a few common hand tools. The diffuser, impeller, shaft seal, ceramic seal and seal plate are easily accessed for inspection or replacement. Safety must be considered because electrical connections are exposed, but following the right procedure makes the task safe, quick and easy.
Things You'll Need
- 9/16-inch socket or open end wrench
- 1/2-inch open end wrench
- 7/16-inch open end wrench
- Flat head screwdriver
- Phillips head screwdriver
- 1 teaspoon liquid soap (non-granulated dish-washing soap)
- 1 cup water
- Clean cloth
Turn off electrical power to the pump at the breaker, or if it is cord-equipped, unplug the cord. Cords used on swimming pool pumps might be twist-lock cords and might require a quarter-turn counter-clockwise to remove.
Twist the strainer cover counter-clockwise to remove it. If it is too tight to remove by hand, obtain the Hayward pump lid removal tool, part number SPX3100T or the equivalent. Lift up on the front edge of the strainer basket to remove it from the strainer housing. Stuck strainer baskets can be removed by lubricating around the top edge with a dilute soap solution. Make the soap solution using 1 tsp. of liquid dish-washing soap in 1 cup of water. This solution will also be used for lubricating gaskets during reassembly.
Locate the bonding connection on the pump motor. A bare, thick copper wire will be attached to the bonding connection. During removal, the motor will slide back a minimum of 3 inches and might need to rotate to one side or the other to provide access to the internal components. Determine if the installation has enough room behind the motor and if the bonding wire will allow the motor to move. If necessary, carefully remove the bonding connection.
Remove the six 9/16-inch cap screws from the pump housing with a socket or wrench. Allow the pump housing to drain. Slide the motor back to expose the internal components. The diffuser, a cone shaped plastic part that covers the impeller, might remain in the pump housing. If it does, pull it straight back to remove it. Look for the impeller ring -- a white plastic part that fits loosely over the eye of the impeller.
Snap off the diffuser if it is iattached to the motor assembly by pulling it out and down. The impeller ring might come off the impeller. Set the diffuser and impeller ring aside. Look in the eye of the impeller to see if it has a screw. Remove the screw by holding the impeller and using a screwdriver to twist the screw counter-clockwise. Only larger horsepower pumps, for a short period of time, were supplied with the screw in the impeller.
Remove the motor end cover by locating and removing two screws or twisting off the hex-shaped covers. The motor shaft might have a centrifugal switch on the end. Do not remove the centrifugal switch. Slide a 7/16-inch open end wrench in front of the centrifugal switch to immobilize the shaft. The shaft has two flat areas for the wrench. Some motors have large, slotted shafts without centrifugal switches on the end. Insert a 1/2-inch wrench to engage the flat areas. On a motor with a small cap over the shaft end, the 1/2-inch wrench must be inserted at an angle to engage the flat areas.
Grasp the impeller and twist it counter-clockwise while immobilizing the shaft with the wrench. Continue turning the impeller until it comes off the shaft. The seal plate will slide off the motor mounting plate when the impeller is removed. Take care not to touch or damage the white ceramic seal in the seal plate unless it is being replaced. Remove the motor mounting plate, if required, by removing the four motor cap screws with the 9/16-inch socket or wrench.
If you are replacing the seal assembly, push the ceramic portion out of the seal plate by pressing with thumbs from the back. Lubricate the O-ring on the new ceramic seal with the dilute soap solution, and press it into the seal plate, polished side up. Note the spring seal position on the impeller shaft, with the raised carbon edge facing the ceramic. Remove the spring seal from the impeller by twisting back and forth. Seat the new spring seal assembly on the impeller shaft.
Reverse the steps to reassemble. Wipe any debris off the ceramic seal using a clean cloth. Do not lubricate any parts with petroleum lubricants. Use the dilute soap solution to lubricate the housing and strainer cover gaskets. Place the seal plate onto the motor mounting plate, then thread on the impeller. With the wrench immobilizing the shaft, tighten the impeller hand-tight. Replace the loose impeller ring on the impeller eye with the thick end facing the diffuser. Snap the diffuser back onto the seal plate before sliding the assembly back into place. The assembly should slide into the pump housing easily with only a small gap between the seal plate and pump housing. Tighten the six housing cap screws equally, but do not over-tighten. Replace the bonding wire if it was removed.
Fill the strainer assembly with water, replace the strainer basket and thread on the strainer cover before restoring power and testing the pump.
Tips & Warnings
- Time clocks or toggle switches should not be trusted to disconnect power. The Super II pump might be wired for 230-volt service, and time clocks and toggle switches are often wired to interrupt only one leg of the power. Even when the time clock or toggle switch is "Off" and the pump not operating, there might be dangerous voltage present at the motor wiring plate.
- The bonding wire must be reinstalled before operating the pump. Failure to do so can cause serious or fatal shock hazard.
- Photo Credit Jupiterimages/Photos.com/Getty Images
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