How to Rappel Down a Cliff

There are a lot of different ways to rappel down a cliff. Here's how to use standard rock-climbing gear and technique to rappel using a single 50- or 60-meter rope.

Difficulty: Moderately challenging

Instructions

Things You'll Need:

• Athletic Tapes
• Climbing Gear
• Climbing Harnesses
• Climbing Helmets
• Climbing Ropes
• Climbing Shoes

1. Set the rappel anchor. The rappel anchors should be tested before you trust them with your life. You should be securely attached to these anchors with a sling or daisy chain while you proceed through the following steps.

2. Prepare the rope for a single rope rappel. Fix one end of the rope to the rappel anchors by tieing a double figure 8 knot into the carabiners at the end of the equalized anchors. Make sure the rope doesn't go over any sharp edges and that the other end of the rope makes it to the ground.

3. Attach the rappel device to the rope. Be careful not to drop your device as you are attaching it to the rope. Check the manufacturer's instructions for how to use your particular rappel device.

4. 

   Attach your rappel device to your harness. Clip into the rappel device with a locking carabiner. Do not unclip from the anchors (Step 1) until you are sure you are correctly attached to the rappel device, and the rappel device is correctly attached to the rope. After you've tested both the rope and the device, you can unclip your daisy chain from the anchors and proceed with the rappel.

5. Get in position. These instructions assume you are right-handed or are comfortable using your right hand in this. Place your left hand around the rope about 6 inches above the rappel device. Your left hand will be between your rappel device and the anchors holding the rope. Consider wearing gloves to protect your hands.

6. 

   Grab the rope that hangs down out of the rappel device with your right hand and slide your hand on the rope back to your right hip and wrap the rope slightly around your right hip. Your right hand in this configuration is called your brake hand.

7. 

   Rappel downward. Let some of the rope in your right hand slide up through the rappel device. As you do this you will slide down the rope.

8. 

   Move past obstructions and overhangs. Make sure not to knock loose any rocks or other debris.

9. When you are safely on the ground, release the rope from your rappel device and call "Off rappel" for others who may be waiting.

Tips & Warnings

• Know how to use your rappel device before trying it out on a real rappel. The actual event is not a good time to learn how it works.
• Use a prusik to self-belay. A prusik is a large loop of 5-8 mm perlon rope that is used to tie a special self-locking knot called a prusik knot. As you slide down the rappel line with the prusik knot in your hand, the prusik slides along with you, but when you let go of the prusik, the prusik locks.
• If you're not sure your ropes reach the ground, tie a large knot in the end of the rope so that you don't rappel off the end of your rope. That could be a little hairy.
• Rappeling is one of the most dangerous activities in climbing because it is one of the few times you are fully and exclusively dependent on your rope. If you can walk off the route safely, instead of rappeling, this is preferable.
• These instructions are for a single rope rappel, not a double rope rappel. Single rope rappels should only be used in situations where you can safely return to the rappel anchors to retrive your gear and fixed rope without climbing.
• Rappeling is an inherently dangerous activity that can result in serious injury or death. We recommend that you seek proper training and equipment before attempting this activity.

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[munzo]

on 9/21/2009 THIS HOW TO... FAILS... DON'T TRY THIS AT HOME.

[corydzbinski]

on 2/3/2009 I like 8's much better. I'm not going to trust a cable pinned into an aluminum base on a 100' rappel! An 8 is a solid, SINGLE piece of metal that will not come apart.

[mtmtnr]

on 8/15/2008 People still use 8s? Funny, most pros use an ATC to rapp like the one pictured above so you can eliminate extra gear. Yes, it is a belay device, but is the preferred rapp device as well. 8s are fine but can cause twisting in the rope and are more difficult to use with smaller diameter single ropes (<10mm) that are common today.

That being said, you should always go with a pro when starting out. Gym climbing experience doesn't count.

[dontdoit]

on 8/11/2008 I have a few tips.....
1. NEVER DO THIS WITHOUT A PROFESSIONAL!!!
2. "Consider wearing gloves to protect your hands."...WTF!!....Wear gloves if you life your hands burn free
3. Also the device depicted in the above pictures is a belay device and should not be used for rappelling....you want to use an "8 ring"
4. You Need a belay person at the bottom is apply tension on the line in the event of an emergency.
5. If you are reading this....chances are you need professional help or you are a professional looking for a laugh(like me). So get the help you need don't risk it.

on 8/8/2006 In a pinch, you can use a knot called a muenter hitch to belay with only a carabiner. Prussik takes an extra length of rope; muenter takes an extra piece of gear. Know them both.