How to Replace Wood Shakes Siding
Cedar shake siding is a traditional building material that has been used for hundreds of years. Cedar shakes are layered over the side of the house to provide water resistance and protection from harmful ultra-violet (UV) rays from sunlight. Over time, exposure to the elements can deteriorate cedar shake siding. Sometimes, individual shingles can be replaced but, in other cases, the old shingles should be completely removed and replaced with newer material. Does this Spark an idea?
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Things You'll Need
- 1 board, 1-by-3 inch by 8 foot long
- Pencil
- Pitch fork
- Pry bar
- Hammer
- 30-lb. felt
- Stapler
- Chalk line
- Level
- Replacement shingles
- Corrosion resistant nails
- Utility knife
- Hand planer
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Instructions
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Remove the Old Shakes and Prepare the Walls
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Create a story pole. Hold the 1-by-3 inch board that is 8 feet long against the side of the house. Use a pencil to mark the base, or butt line, for each course of shingles. This story pole will serve as your reference when you are re-siding the house with shingles.
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Pry the old shingles off the house. Use your pitch fork to pry away large sections of deteriorated shingles. Use the pry bar to lift individual shingles or shingles that are down too low for the pitch fork to be effective.
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3
Check the walls for any nails sticking out. Use your hammer to either pull the nails out or to pound them flush.
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Cover the walls with 30-lb. felt. Use your stapler to fasten the felt in place. Flashing can be used on the inside corners to hold the felt in place and to prevent tearing.
Install the New Cedar Shakes
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Use your level and chalk line to snap a guide for your first shingle course. Refer to your story pole to establish the butt line.
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Fasten the first course of shingles. Double-layer the first course. Nail a course of shingles to the wall. Nail a second course of shingles over the first, with the lower edge of the shingles falling about 1/2 inch below the underlying course.
This double course of shingles will provide greater moisture protection and establish the pitch for subsequent shingle courses.
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Nail each shingle with two corrosion resistant nails. Stainless steel, aluminum and hot-dipped zinc coated nails all work well with cedar shake. Each nail should be driven about 2 inches above the butt line of the shingle course above; and about 3/4 inch from each edge of the shingle.
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Leave about a 1/8th-inch gap between each shingle. This space allows for expansion during wet weather.
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Stagger the joints between shingle courses as you work your way up. Leave at least 2 1/2 inches between joints from one shingle course to the course above or below. This provides greater water resistance.
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Lace the corners. When you reach a corner, use your utility knife and hand planer to trim the corner shingle flush with the wall. On the adjacent shingle course, trim the corner shingle so that its face is flush with the edge of the shingle it meets.
Alternate this pattern as you work your way up so that the joint between corner shingles is staggered. This will provide greater water resistance.
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Tips & Warnings
An exterior wood stain will provide your wood with greater water resistance and UV protection.
