How to Install an Electric Supercharger

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Though the effectiveness of these systems is hotly debated, the electric supercharger remains one of the simpler and most universal upgrades available for any car. Generally, mass-market electric superchargers are most effective on small displacement engines, such as those found on motorcycles and older import cars. For any engine larger than 1.2 liters, consider investing in a standard turbocharger.


This article is specific to the eRam electric charger and presumes the installation of an aftermarket cold air induction system, but the basics apply to any inline charger installation. Cars using a stock air intake may require some modification.

Things You'll Need

  • eRam Electric Supercharger kit
  • Cone Air Filter (if not already equipped)
  • All purpose automotive grease
  • Flathead and Phillips head screwdrivers
  • Hacksaw (if required)
  • Wrenches
  • Sockets
  • Torque wrench
  • Loosen the hose clamp securing the cone air filter, and remove the air filter from the intake tube.

  • Lubricate the outside of the intake tube 3 inches from the end of the tube.

  • Slide large end of rubber pipe adapter (if required) onto intake tube.

  • Tighten hose clamp with flat-head screwdriver.

  • Install outlet side of eRam onto adapter or stock tube, and tighten pre-installed hose clamp with flat-head screwdriver.

  • Install cone air filter onto inlet side of eRam, and tighten hose clamp to secure.

  • Remove one bolt from negative battery terminal with 1/2-inch wrench, and slide eyelet end of black eRam wire between the terminal and clamp. Do not reinstall bolt at this time.

  • Connect weather-pack connector on eRam to matching red connector pre-wired to the relay.

  • Slide eyelet on black ground wire from relay on top into the negative battery terminal clamp, on top of eRam ground eyelet.

  • Reinstall terminal bolt and tighten to 30 pound-feet of torque.

  • Insert self-tapping sheet-metal screw into mounting hole on relay.

  • Place relay on fender-well as near as possible to the eRam. Use a 3/8-inch drive ratchet with a 1/4-inch hex bit to drive screw into body.

  • Connect green relay wire to "signal-out" terminal on micro-switch.

  • Connect micro-switch to throttle body, and adjust switch position so that it is activated only under full throttle. Procedures will vary by vehicle and mounting bracket used.

  • Connect eyelet at the end of the "power-in" micro-switch wire to positive battery cable.

  • Remove one bolt from positive battery terminal as you did with the negative in Step 7.

  • Slip eyelet from both red eRam positive wire and eyelet from "power-in" side of micro-switch into positive terminal as you did in Step 7.

  • Re-install positive ground bolt and tighten to 30 pound-feet.

Tips & Warnings

  • Though the eRam kit does come with an inline fuse, consider replacing the stock fuse with one 5 amps higher in current tolerance. The stock fuse tends to blow out well beneath system tolerances.
  • Route wires well away from exhaust pipes and other sources of heat.

References

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